Finally on the 22nd we figured it was as good as it was going to get, and spent the next 12 hours beating against the winds for Port Vila. Luckily the seas weren't too bad, and we were able to point pretty high into the wind, making good time and good heading. Unfortunately we didn't leave quite early enough, and therefore found ourselves racing against the setting sun. We need about an extra hour, but with Island Sonata helping us we were able to make it safely to our mooring ball in the dark.
We couldn't believe when we first rounded the point to Vila's bay ... there wasn't a single cloud hovering over Vila! Never had we seen Vila so clear ... it was a bit ironic, as it seemed the clouds had been following us around over the last few weeks. Once inside the bay, with the sun just having set, we were motoring up the channel, when a huge cruise ship was making it's way out of another bay into the channel. Although we knew he was going to turn, and had given him ample space, having such a massive ship pointed directly at Billabong was a bit nerve-racking! When the cruise ship finally turned, and passed just along side us (heading out the channel while we were heading in), we could feel it's vibrations!
The next five days it was cloudy and rainy ... go figure! We did our usual 'get the boat ready' routine, some last minute internet-ing, and of course the typically weather watch.
On Thursday, the 28th, we said good by to Port Vila, and Vanuatu, and headed for New Caledonia.
Continue reading "Vanuatu Wrap up - Photos"...
We had been dreading heading back to Vila, as it is against the winds, and we'd have to really watch the weather, waiting for a shift or lighter wind. The trip to Revolieu wasn't too bad, but it was still to weather, and by the time we set the hook in Revolieu we were worn out. For only the third time in the last two weeks the sun was out and the sky was clear when we entered Revolieu. That night the sky was lit up with thousands of stars. We were highly disappointed when we woke the next morning to clouds and rain!
We spent four nights in Revolieu, mostly just entertaining ourselves while waiting for decent weather to finish the trek south to Vila. Twice we walked the dirt road to a nearby village and school (about 45 minutes one-way). Here we met a young Peace Corp's worker, Kevin. We ended up having him out to Island Sonata for dinner, where he entertained us with his guitar playing and singing. He writes his own songs/music and they are amazing. We also ended up leaving the solar oven with him, to pass on to the village. Kevin and Beth, from Red, had given us the oven in Majuro. We had originally hoped to pass it on to 'our village', Naviqiri, in Fiji, but we never had enough sunny days to teach them how to use it. Most of our time in Vanuatu had also been cloudy and so we were getting worried we'd never find a place to leave it. Since Kevin will be in Revolieu for a couple of years, we figure he'll have plenty of sunny days and plenty of time to show the locals how it works.This text will only appear on after the reader clicks "continue reading.." Delete if NOT needed
Continue reading "Revolieu Bay, Epi"...
Current Location: Revolieu Bay, Epi Island, Vanuatu Current Position: 16°43.68' S 168°08.68' E Next Destination: Port Vila, Efate Island, Vanuatu
Over the last eleven days we've completed a small loop, visiting three anchorages on the South-Eastern side of Malekula (Maskelyne Islands, Port Sandwich, and Banam Bay) and one anchorage on the Northern side of Ambrym (Ranon Bay).
We enjoyed our time in the beautiful and calm anchorage of the Maskelyne Islands, but after three days of on and off sun, the clouds rolled in and have hovered over us ever since. We've been desperately praying to the sun gods to part the clouds and clear the rain, but as of yet they are ignoring us.
From the Maskelyne's we moved up the coast about 12 n.m. to Port Sandwich, a very calm spot to be anchored during some shifty winds. In Port Sandwich we enjoyed some time with a very funny local couple, Ezekiel and Serah. Ezekiel was quite the character, talking non-stop in his heavily accented English, of which we understand about one out of every ten words! They were an extremely giving couple, loading us up with fresh eggs, fruits and veggies after only knowing us less than a day!
Banam bay was terrific, but crowded .... the most boats we've been at anchor with in a long time (about 15)! The village caters to tourist by offering crafts and custom dancing (at a cost of course). The dancing was terrific and energetic, but couldn't compare to the thousands dancing at the Nekowiar festival in Tanna. Still it was great fun, and as always the locals were more than welcoming. The following evening we enjoyed dancing to the tunes of a local string band. We continue to be impressed with the creativity of their musical instruments (a 5-gallon barrel for the drum and a box-stick-string contraption for bass). The fishing just off the nearby reef was outstanding. One afternoon Chris went out in the dinghy and in under ten minutes had caught a dog-toothed tuna! Chris seems to be becoming more and more well known amongst the cruisers for his love and knowledge of fishing, and creative home-made lures. He has now hosted over five lure-making sessions aboard Billabong!
We motor-sailed to Ranon Bay specifically to hike the ash planes of Ambrym's active volcano, only to learn they had "closed" the volcano for the planting of yams (for spiritual beliefs). So instead we spent the afternoon viewing various wood-carvings by the locals. Unfortunately Ranon Bay is extremely keen on tourist, so much so that they charge for EVERYTHING (cruise ships visit this bay, so they are used to getting money for everything/anything). To walk through the village and view the various carvings we had to pay for a "tour" .... granted it was only $4 each, but it seemed weird to be paying to go 'shopping'! Ranon Bay has a beautiful long black-sand beach, which Chris was quite excited about, as it was his first [black sand beach]!
With our visas close to expiring and still having to beat our way back south to Port Vila, we departed Ambrym for a hard on the wind sail back to Revolieu Bay on Epi. We had stopped briefly in Revolieu on our way north, but hadn't had a chance to explore, so yesterday we went on a great walk to a nearby village. There we met a local Peace Corps worker from Idaho. Kevin joined us on Island Sonata for Mexican night and music (he is an outstanding guitarist/singer).
Now we are just hoping for a half-way decent weather window for the remaining trek south to Port Vila. We figure it's going to be a hell-ish trip, but luckily is under 70 n.m., so we'll just have to tough it out! Once back in Port Vila, we'll prepare to check-out and move on to New Cal. As usual we feel our time has been cut short .... but we must keep moving if we are to have any time in New Cal before departing for cyclone season. Oh woe is us ... having too many wonderful places to visit!!!
It was another motor-sail over to Ambrym. We anchored near Ranon Village, as we knew they offered tours to the volcano. Ambrym's active volcano is purportedly not as impressive as Tanna's, but the ash planes are supposed to be an impressive site. Unfortunately, we learned that the volcano was 'closed' for the planting of the yams (related to spiritual beliefs). Typically they don't close the volcano until October, but this year they had planted early. We joined some other cruisers who had also just come over from Banam bay and were taking a village tour in order to look at the wood carvings. We had to pay for the tour, 400 vatu ($4) each (normally 800, but on special then), which according to the little paper we had been given included tour-like stuff, such as pointing out various plants & foods, demonstrating weaving and carving, and so on. What we got was a person taking us around from one wood-carver's home to the next, showing us the carvings that were for sale. Granted, we wanted to see carvings, and even purchase some, but where was the "tour"? Chris and I only bought a couple of items, but the cruisers we were with spent tons of money ... and still at the end of the day we were all charged for the "tour". Ranon is definitely one of the places in Vanuatu who has taken tourism and making a buck a bit too far.
Ambrym is also where the Rom dance takes place. Originally I had really wanted to see the dance, but a few other cruisers didn't give the dance that great of reviews. The costume is quite impressive, but paying $40 bucks each just for the costumes seemed a bit pricey, so Chris and I decided against it. With no Rom, no volcano, and everything else at Ranon costing money, and with our visas running out of town, we decided it was time to head back towards Vila.
Continue reading "Ranon, Ambrym"...
Banam bay was an easy motor-sail up the coast from Port Sandwich. It was again a bit crowded, the most boats we've been at anchor with in a long time (about 15), but it's a big bay and there was plenty of room. We went in that afternoon with a number of other cruisers to see the dance performance. At the Nekowiar I thought I had gotten used to the nambas (penis sheaths), but as we entered the dancing area for the men, I found myself trying hard to not stare! Apparently there are different types of nambas, and some cover quite a bit more (or less) than others. Here, they wore minimal coverage, with, as we call them, "the boys" hanging right out there! I had seen pictures, and some men at the Nekowiar had these type nambas as well, but still it was shocking to be around twenty men raging from 17 to 80 years old, all practically naked. We were greeted by a line of about five men, who all shook our hands, and then one would put a leaf wreath over your head; you had to bend forward, and holy-moly, look at what you're looking directly at now!
The men performed four dances for us, and they were all terrific. They were laughing, singing, and energetically jumping around. They wore bean pods around their ankles to add to the beat of the older men playing the drums and tam-tams (ni-Van carved drum). A few 'photography' friends, as well as some of the books on photography, have said that when filming or shooting, try to get at a different angle; either lower or higher. So I was squatting down, filming, I glanced away for a minute, and when I turned back and looked through the viewfinder, one of the dancers had turned and was enthusiastically jumping towards me ... and oh my gosh the 'boys' were coming right at me! I nearly dropped the camera!
We moved to a different area to watch the women's dance, where the main attraction was a little girl trying to keep up with her mom. The women's dance wasn't quite as exciting or energetic, but we still enjoyed ourselves. Afterwards the men had us introduce ourselves and then provided us with drinking coconuts and their local dish, lap-lap. We had to pay for the dancing, but it was well worth the small fee, and one of the things I feel they are totally justified in charging for.
We returned to Billabong, just before sunset, and Chris decided to make a quick dinghy fishing run. About ten minutes later I saw him coming back and figured he had broken something or tired quickly. Imagine my surprise when he returned with a dog-toothed tuna! Word got around the fleet quick, and the next day he was hosting more fishing lure 'sessions'! Besides the barracuda which we threw back, we caught two other good-eaten fish during our short stay!
Banam Bay has a great beach with thousands of neat shells; we spent part of our morning just walking the beach and admiring the shells ... usually joined by curious children checking out what the whities are doing! On our second evening in the bay we walked inland a bit to another village, who had string band. They had the box-stick-string bass instrument as well, and a five-gallon barrel for the drum. The locals and cruisers all danced, and there was an abundance of laughter.
Continue reading "Banam Bay, Malekula"...
We are Chris & KT Myles aboard the Sailing Vessel Billabong (a 44 foot sloop). We set sail from Ventura, CA in Dec 2003 and spent 5.5 years and 33,000 miles sailing the world. Learn more about our adventure through Our Blog
