Happy Holidays & Mom's 10 day Visit

12/19/04 - 01/14/05
by KT

We seemed to cover a lot of "territory" in this time period ... as usual we captured most of it via our cameras.  Since we can never seem to come up with the words to accurately describe the beauty, it just seemed to make sense to do another "photo journal" (not to mention easier).  We hope we don't overwhelm you with the quantity of photos in this journal, but we think they are all worth viewing (so grab a cup of 'jo and enjoy!).


The Holidays



After our eight-day tour of the Northland, it was back to Billabong and our 'normal' routines.  Lots of email, landline phone calls to the States and general about-the-town activities.  I was really hoping for an intimate and somewhat traditional Christmas, so Chris and I decided to invite some of our friends over for a huge Christmas feast.  It seems that I started planning the meal weeks ahead of time ... with only two burners and a very tiny oven I wasn't sure how we would pull off the dinner I was dreaming of ... but we more then managed (especially with the help of the grocery store butcher who specially cut the Crown Roast short so that it would fit in our itty bitty oven).  Our guests for the evening were John & M.J. (Island Sonata), Duncan & Robin (Whisper), and Fred (Mary C).  Seven was a lot to crowd around our little table, but it just added to the ambiance.  Dinner turned out fantastic with an Apricot Ginger & Cranberry Brie Pastry appetizer, followed by a 5 course dinner consisting of Crown Roast of Pork with Cranberry-Apple stuffing, fresh Mashed Potatoes and Gravy, Christmas Salad,  Homemade dinner rolls, and an awesome Fruit Salad (brought by Island Sonata).  Not thinking we could eat another bite, we somehow managed to still get down Oreo Cookie Cheesecake & Pumpkin Swirl Cheesecake ... whoever would of known such a feast could come from such a small galley!

A few days after Christmas we enjoyed a visit from Ralph & Donna (Ocean Girl).  They came down from Opua and spent the night with us aboard Billabong.  We enjoyed a homemade meat pie (thanks to Donna) and left-over cheesecake.

The next thing we knew the New Year was upon us.  Michael & Mary (de la Mer) were visiting and joined us and Island Sonata for a fantastic dinner out at Killer Prawn (doesn't it seem the holiday's are all about eating?!?!).  Killer Prawn hosted a live Spanish-style band ... so along with great food & wine we enjoyed some lively dancing!  Somehow we managed to stay awake to midnight (difficult considering we're on cruisers hours, therefore typically hitting the hay around 9/10pm).

Mom's 10 day visit

As my mom (Denise) was arriving at 5:00 AM and the Auckland airport was a good 2-1/2 hours away, we opted to head down to Auckland on the 2nd and stay in a Holiday Park near the airport.  Five AM arrived quickly and our first visitor (of many) had finally arrived!  I couldn't believe that a year had already gone by.  After a chatty drive back home to Whangarei, Chris & I enjoyed a second Christmas ... my Mom had brought lots and lots of goodies from the states, including Bisquick quick packs, Skippy Peanut Butter, a new zoom camera lens and camera backpack, and a replacement camera for Chris (seeing as I toasted his last one when I toppled over the wall in Tonga).  She also brought lots and lots of pictures which we thoroughly enjoyed going through.  Between our early wake-up call and jet lag we decided to have a lazy day around Whangarei.

Mom's Visit Day 2 (Jan 4th)
Since it wasn't raining we figured it was a great day for a walk ... the Whangarei Falls offered great views, a stroll through a small Kauri forest, and a terrific waterfall.



Mom's Visit Day 3 (Jan 5th)

Next up was a visit to Heritage Park located just around the bend from the Harbor.  Heritage Park offered a variety of attractions, including an old historic New Zealander's house, Old Engines (maintained by a local Engine's club), a Bird information center and hospital, and a 'famous' talking Tui ... who sounded JUST like a deep-voiced man.  He entertained us with "Merry Christmas", "Wanna going swimming", and "Hello".



Mom's Visit Day 4 (Jan 6th)

Unfortunately the weather was still not cooperating, as we awoke to another cloudy, dreary day.  But we didn't let the lingering clouds damper our spirits as we headed south towards Warkworth for a visit to Sheepworld.  We opted for the scenic coastal drive out to Manawhai Heads, enjoying the beautiful views and sandy beaches.



Sheepworld was the first really touristy thing that Chris and I did in NZ ... and in my opinion one of the most fun!  I had talked Chris into going under the ruse that my mom would like it, but in all honesty I was itching to go!  In the end I think Chris enjoyed hand feeding the farm animals and the sheep herding show as much as my mom and I!

As the sheep-herding dog show started I selfishly commented to Chris, "Bummer that all these kids are here, they're the ones who will get to do all the [interactive] stuff!".  However, kudos to the commentator as he asked for "big kid" volunteers as well, and Mom & Chris were sure to give me the nudge to get out there ... I got to try my hand at sheep sorting and enjoyed bottle feeding a baby pig.  After my (quite pathetic) attempt at sheep sorting I have a whole new respect for farmers.



We finished the day off with a drive up to a lookout point over Whangarei.



Mom's Visit Day 5 (Jan 7th)

Since it was raining, it was a good day for relaxing around the boat and catching up on our books. We also prepared for our upcoming South Island / Glacier visit.

Mom's Visit Day 6 (Jan 8th)

Off to the Auckland airport for our flight to Christchurch ...
Just as we arrive at the airport our nostrils were filled with the strong odor of anti-freeze!  One of Billavan's hoses had cracked wide up and was now spewing anti-freeze all over the airport parking lot.  With a flight to catch Chris took a cursory glance in order to figure out what supplies to buy before our return trip from the South Island.  As it turns out this was one of many "lucky" breakdowns ... lucky in that the van decided to breakdown just as we hit our destination (you'll read about the other breakdowns in future journal pieces).

It was a rainy/overcast day, so we didn't get to see much on the flight between islands.  In Christchurch we rented a car and headed West across SH 73, through Arthur's Pass and on into Glacier country.  At one of our lookout stops, we were introduced to the Kea, a very social mountain parrot who is know for eating plastic and rubber off of cars and camping gear!!!



It was raining off and on, but we still managed to enjoy a few great views.  We were amazed at the difference in scenery between the "wet" side and the "dry" side of the Alps ... it was as though we were in two different countries!  In addition, the long drive included flat farm lands, the mountainous Southern Alps, and ocean-side highways ... making the drive continuously interesting.

Mom's Visit Day 6 (Jan 9th)

Although it had been pouring down rain when we arrived, we woke to stunning blue skies.  We were very excited as today's adventure was all about hiking part of the Franz Josef Glacier.  We were booked for one of the morning 1/2 day glacier hikes, so it was a get-up-and-go morning as we headed off for the tour.  It was a bit of a shock when we arrived and were shown a picture of the ever growing, and increasingly steeping glacier.  Both Chris and I started getting nervous, not only for ourselves (after looking at the picture I had serious doubts as to whether I was up to the challenge), but also for my Mom (hiking glaciers isn't a very common activity in Yuma, Arizona).  She however was overly gung-ho and bursting with energy  (we learned later that she really didn't get a good look at the picture!!!).  We also learned that the Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers are fast moving glaciers, with flow reates up to 3m PER DAY!



We were outfitted with raincoats, boots, and ice-Talonz (basically a set of spikes that cover the entire sole of the boot and are hinged in two places, allowing unimpeded walking and "superior" glacier grip), then shuffled onto a bus for a short trip out to the glacier.  We knew that our group would be splitting into three smaller groups based on desired hiking speed (slower, faster, and somewhere in between).  The faster you hike, the higher you get, and therefore the more "cool" stuff you get to see (such as ice crevices, ice caves, tunnels, etc).  Prior to getting on the bus Mom had told us that we should go with one of the faster groups, but that she wanted to take here time with the more leisurely paced group.  Chris and I were torn, we couldn't decide if we should really leave Mom or not (it sort of felt as though we would be just ditching her, what kind of daughter would that make me???).  It was a bit funny when Chris and I (who were at the back of the bus, while my Mom was at the front) were discussing what we should do, saying things like "Do you think she'll be okay?" ... "Should we really leave her alone?" ... "You think it is going to be too hard?" ... "Maybe she'll need/want company", and a man sitting next to me said, "Oh, do you have a child also?".  "No," I replied, "we have a Mom!".  "Ahh, just about the same thing!" he said with laughter!  In the end, with Mom's blessing (and urging), Chris and I joined the fast group, leaving Mom to handle the big-bad block of ice on her own!!!

One of the most amazing things about the glacier is the approach.  The hike starts with a forty-minute tramp through a pretty dense rain forest that leads you to an open, dry, rocky terrain.  Another forty minutes (of mostly flat walking) or so and you are looking up and a humongous block of ice (the glacier).  At the bottom of the glacier we were instructed on how to hook on our ice-Talonz and how to walk & climb to make them as effective as possible, and to avoid catching them on your pant legs (which would then trip you up).

As I looked up the side of the glacier my stomach flipped with nervousness ... "I am not this fit." I was thinking, "Why the hell did I come in the fast group?".  But nobody in our group really looked like serious fitness buffs, so I tried to reassure myself that all would be well.  And of course it was. The guides carve steep ice steps into the side of the mountain, and the going is actually quite slow.  It felt even steeper than it looked and I did have a few moments where I visualized myself slipping backwards off one of the steps into oblivion.  Even worse, I had a few moments of serious guilt that I had left Mom behind, as I visualized calling my sister to tell her that I had caused Mom's demise! Perhaps my visualization skills can be too good sometimes!

We made our way slowly up the glaciers, using hand ropes and carved steps to ascend.  I kept looking down below hoping to see Mom's black head in one of the tiny people-specs below.  A few times I thought I saw her, but I'm pretty sure it was just my imagination trying to put me at ease.  Once past the super-steep part, the going was much easier, and I could finally relax and enjoy the views.  We traveled through a few crevices and got a chance to look through a few tiny ice caves, but a 1/2-day hike didn't allow for much time, and before we knew it, we were on our way down again.  For someone a bit afraid of heights, the climb down was just as scary as going up.  There was nothing to stop you should you take a wrong step, slip, or trip.  As if to reinforce this point, just as we were nearing the bottom, a woman in a group in front of us caught her ice-Talonz on her pant leg, tripping her up.  She fell about 25 feet into a rocky crevice.  We didn't actually witness the fall, but we did hike past her ... and it was not a pretty sight.  She was fine (in that she didn't break her neck), but she did have a pretty good cut on her head, and had dislocated her shoulder.  I was quite happy and relieved when we made it down to the bottom, and even more so, when we found Mom sitting there, safe, healthy, and happy!!!

To top of this fantastic day, it didn't start raining until we had finished our hike!!!  This was such a terrific adventure, that we took almost 200 pictures!  I've tried to pick the better ones, but there are still so many that I felt it would be a little overwhelming to have them all in the journal ... click on the photo below to link over the photo album of Franz Josef Glacier!

Side note:  a few days after Mom's departure from NZ, Chris found an article in the local newspaper with the subtitle: "Climbers are now screened because the steep trek is more dangerous"!  The article went on to state that the glacier was rapidly expanding outwards, becoming steeper at its front.  The manager of Franz Josef Glacier Guides was quoted saying, "It's a safety issue.  The climb is tougher now and you have to remember it's not sturdy rock, it's slippery ice.  You fall, you're gone."  Yikes!!! Glad we read that AFTER doing the hike :)  Now all my worrying doesn't seem so cowardly eh?

I had made a [minor] booking error and booked us 20 minutes down the road at a holiday park in Fox Glacier rather than Franz Josef ... which turned out to be quite lucky after all, as the scenery between the two glaciers was fantastic, and it gave us an opportunity to explore both Gillespies Beach and take a look at Fox Glacier.

After our tiring morning we didn't hike to the base of Fox Glacier, but did get the opportunity to see it via a couple of different lookout points.


Rain forest walk to viewpoint of Fox Glacier Lots of tree ferns lined the path Waterfalls could be seen through the dense forest Fox Glacier Next we drove to the car park near the base of Fox, which is surrounded by towering, dramatic cliffs horizontal rule

Since it was still too early for dinner, we decided to drive out to Gillespies Beach.  By now the sun had again broken through and we had some fantastic views of the Glaciers and Southern Alps Range. We were a bit hesitant to drive all the way to the beach when we encountered a huge "EXTREME DANGER" sign (regarding road conditions), but what the heck, we were in a rental after all!  Turns out the road is not that bad.  Gillespies Beach was terrific, you could stand and do a 360, seeing beach, rain forest, mountain ranges, and the glaciers ... all from one spot!  We didn't spend long on the actually beach as the sand-flies were horrendous.  We also had some fun with the farm animals along the way ... we had stopped the car to take a picture, when I noticed that a couple of the cows were looking up at me, so (naturally) I mooed at them, "Mooo Moooo Mooo" ... I kid you not, EVERY cow in the paddock looked up at me ... so of course I kept on Mooeing "Mooo Mooo Mooooooo" ... next thing I knew they were all running, yes RUNNING, towards me!  Luckily there was a fence, so I had nothing to worry about (although I later learned that cows are able to knock over and/or jump the fences when properly provoked).  It was one of the funniest sites ever (at least funny to a non-farm girl from California).



Finally, it was back to the holiday park, hot showers, and a nice dinner out (to reward ourselves for completing the Glacier Hike).

Mom's Visit Day 7 (Jan 10th)

Chris was so motivated by all the great scenery, that he woke early and went out to try and get some good shots (photographs) with the soft morning light.  Later, the sky was so clear and blue that we all went out to take even more photographs, hoping to capture the majestic sights that surrounded us. We probably went a little overboard on route to Arthur's Pass, continuously jumping out of the car to snap off a few shots ... but it was wonderfully beautiful and we desperately wanted to capture "the moment" on film!  Click on the photo below to view the photo gallery of our journey from Glaciers to Arthur's pass (in my non-professional opinion there are some great photos in this album that you just won't want to miss ... so be sure to click and check them out!!!!).



Arthur's Pass was a quaint (i.e. small) little town with fields and fields of purple flowers (whose name escapes me).  By now it had clouded over and was raining on & off, so after a brief walk around town (doesn't take to long when there is only one street with all of four buildings), we stopped in at a cafe for dinner.  We had a most excellent pizza, with smoked chicken, cranberry sauce, and brie (yes, I was hesitant at first too!).

Mom's Visit Day 8 (Jan 11th)

It was time to head back to the North Island.  We made our way from Arthur's Pass to Christchurch. Since our flight wasn't until later in the afternoon, we were able to stop in at the Antarctic Centre. This is a terrific center with interactive displays, videos, and a Hägglund Ride (an all-terrain vehicle used in the Antarctic).  There are displays on Antarctic's wildlife, and in-depth information about Scott Base.  We spent a couple of hours exploring the centre, and easily could've spent a bit more. During lunch (at the Center's cafe) Chris ran across the street to get a glimpse of the US Antarctic Center, spotting one of the planes departing for Antarctica.  The Centre was SO interesting that it made both Chris and I want to visit someday (in the Summer of course).  We were very surprised to find that even Lonely Planet has a guide for Antarctica!



On the plane ride back we had a clear view of Egmont National Park and the massive 2518m dormant volcano, Mt Taranaki (click on photo to left).  Chris had to work his handy magic on Billavan when we got back to the airport parking lot (fixing the hose that busted when we arrived).  Handy as he is, it wasn't too long before we were on the road headed back to Whangarei.

Mom's Visit Day 9 (Jan 12th)

It was a nice day to relax, and we took a leisurely drive out to Whangarei Heads, overlooking a couple terrific bays, talking to cows, and visiting a beach or two.



Mom's Visit Day 10 (Jan 13th)

It seemed like just yesterday we were picking Mom up at the airport, and now it was time to get ready to go back.  We mostly lazed around ... taking time to visit a few shops (where Mom stocked up on last minute souvenirs) and enjoying a bit of sunshine.

Mom's Visit Day 11 (Jan 14th)

It was another drive to Auckland (by the end of our stay in NZ we would have this route down pat!). We enjoyed a bit of walking around Warkworth, where we stopped for lunch and a look at the nearby channel.  We got Mom safely to the airport ... I couldn't believe that it had been a year since I'd last seen her, and would probably be another year or so before I saw her again.  At least I knew the time would go quickly ... but still her visit reminded me of how much I missed home at times, and how many family members & friends I wouldn't get to see this year.

After dropping Mom off, Chris and I hooked up with Robin & Duncan for dinner in Auckland (their boat, Whisper is currently docked across the bay from Auckland).  It was a terrific dinner (excellent fish) and it was fantastic to catch up with Robin & Duncan.  Since we stayed out late, we opted to spend the night in a local Holiday Park before heading back to Whangarei the next morning.

Well, some 200 pictures later ... it was quite the time with Mom and a superb Holiday season!
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Road Trip - NZ Northland

Northland and Coromandel Peninsula Road trip
12/11/04 - 12/18/04
by KT

Our Road trip Route

Because there was so much to see on this trip, we did this journal piece a bit different.  Rather than separate the picture albums from the journal text, both (and video coming soon) are included in this journal.  We figured that words alone just wouldn't do it!



Day 1

(click on map to enlarge)
With the modifications to Billavan complete, and the van filled to the brim  with food, clothes, sleeping gear, dishes & more ... we were finally ready to hit the road for some inland travels.  We didn't have to check the weather, we didn't need to provision for an unknown number of days not knowing where our next fresh vegetable would come from, we didn't need to lash down all are goods, and it didn't matter how hard it blew!  We were traveling on land!

Just outside of Whangarei, we headed off the main highway to drive along the beautiful Tutukaka coastline - and we weren't disappointed with the views!  We made a brief stop at the Tutukaka Marina, just to scope out the boats and stretch our legs.  We also popped into the local dive shop for information on diving the Poor Knights Islands (which sounds fantastic).  We attempted to find one of the short walks from my 202 Great Walks of New Zealand book, however after three tries at finding the turnoff we gave up and continued on.

We ventured farther out into the boondogs, taking on bumpy unsealed roads to find ourselves in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by cows, sheep, Pukeko birds, and vast stretches of farmland.  We stopped for another leg-stretch in Whananaki admiring the beautiful coastline.  On our return to the main highway we discovered a small 20 minute walk with more terrific views.

White sand beaches of Whananaki Chris at Whananaki Coast  Matapouri to Whananaki coastal views Cows and more cows Pukeko birds Fields of wildflowers along deserted road  We like the interesting markings of the black cow And the perfectly round spot on the brown one! Chris & Billavan

Back on the main road, our next stop was Waiomio, where we visited the Kawiti glow worm caves. The formations inside the caves were amazing.  The guide turned off his lantern and the roofs were transformed into brightly lit galaxies.  Hundreds of twinkling stars appeared above us (which were really not stars at all but the glow worms).  The scientific facts of the glow worm are not as wondrous as the viewing ... glow worms are larvae.  Their light is created with the energy from their waste product 'disposal' (in other words it's their poop that's glowing).  When they finally hatch, their adult life only lasts 3 days, during which the spend the ENTIRE time mating. They have no mouths so the simply die from starvation and/or exhaustion!  The cave tour ended with a pleasant 10 minute bush walk back to the parking lot.

Next we took the 'inland' route to Kerikeri where we met up with Ralph & Donna from Ocean Girl for Pizza & Beer before settling down at the nearby Top 10 Holiday Park (campervan/tent camping grounds).



Day 2
(click on map to enlarge)
We started off day 2 with a visit to the Kerikeri chocolate factory in hopes of free samples!  Perhaps it was too early in the morning because we were left empty handed staring through the viewing window with drool running down our chins.  Next door was a Kauri Workshop with beautiful wood pieces.  We purchased a carved Kiwi bird Christmas ornament.  Having failed at the chocolate factory, we stopped at an outstanding bakery, picking up ginger bars, caramel chocolate bars, and a gingerbread man.  Next we were off for a few short walks (to work off all the sweets).  The Rainbow Falls track took us to two terrific waterfalls (one being the 27 metre Rainbow Falls of course).  We took a peak inside the Stone Store (NZ's oldest stone building and earliest frontier shop, 1836) but decided to move on while the sun was still shining (rather then spend our time indoors).

 Rainbow Falls Walk - neat pond with lili pods Walk along Rainbow Falls trek in Kerikeri  Pukeko Bird (yes we're obessed with them) Rainbow Falls Waterfall  We were entertained by ducks going after some food. Rainbow Ralls (27m) First waterfall along Rainbow Falls track Chris relaxing by Rainbow Falls  KT out on a limb (hee hee) Stone House historical building "Authentic" Steam boat Look back up river towards Stone House

We ventured further inland to check out the Puketi Forest.  Huge, magnificent Kauri trees loomed over us as we made our way along the walkway.  There were a variety of different walks & tramps that one could follow.  We went on a shorter one, with the idea that we just might have to come back for a longer stay.

Another coastal detour took us out to Matauri & Tauranga Bay.  We stopped at every little town along this route, and further north as we continued to follow the coast by Taupo Bay, checking out beaches, campsites, and just taking in the sights.  (Historical note:  The Cavalli Islands, just off of Matauri Bay, is the resting place of the one-time Greenpeace flagship Rainbow Warrior)

After driving by tons of "Cow Crossing" road signs, we finally experienced our own cow crossing!  We finished the night off with fish n' chips at the "World Famous" Mangonui Fish shop, and then settled down at a camping park in Hihi beach.


Day 3
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It started pouring rain around 4am ... not so quiet pounding away against Billavan's roof.  We did a bit of lounging before heading out of Hihi beach (what's the hurry when it's raining?).  We stopped briefly in Mangonui for a brief walk amongst the small town stores and then again in Cable Bay to check out the bakery and buy some oil. Then it was out to the Karikari Peninsula (not to be confused with Kerikeri).  This drive was magnificent.  The views and scenery were stunning even with the cloud cover and light fog.  We had originally planned on a short hike to the outer edge of the peninsula but with the rain & mud we opted to just drive as far as we could get.  Unfortunately the very tip had recently been closed off ... although for years the beach/peninsula tip had been open to the public, just recently the owner had decided to close off the area to the public.  Apparently this was big news around the area and had been in the papers and on TV over the last couple of days.  We drove out to both Whatuwhiwhi and Rangiputa points before heading to the Karikari Estates winery.  It was just noon, so we didn't feel too guilty about a little wine tasting (plus we just had to go since Chris' sister's name is Kari!).  The views from the winery were just gorgeous, we couldn't imagine how magnificent it must been with good weather.  After a brief tasting (we were driving after all) and a small purchase we continued back to the main highway.

It seemed like we were in the middle of a discussion on whether it made sense to drive all the way up to Cape Reinga on a cloudy, foggy day (where one couldn't see the view), when the sun started to poke its head out!  So we went for it.  After a brief stop in Kaitaia, and then another stop at a Kauri shop which hosts the oldest set of Kauri stairs we were on our way.

We detoured to the west coast, Waipapakauri Ramp, to view the ninety-mile beach (which is really 90km, not miles).  There are actually speed signs posted, as it is a popular tourist attraction to drive along this beach, including HUGE buses, going 100 clicks (aka kilometers) an hour!  This is not a beach to do your sun bathing on!!!  Not wanting to risk getting Billavan stuck, we decided just to take a look on foot.

The drive up to the Cape was a pleasant, curvy, scenic drive ... filled with suicidal birds.  We had noticed these little brown guys with white spotted wings before, but now they seemed to be out in full force ... and they LOVED to dart out in front of Billavan as we zoomed by!  More than once Chris had to brake in order to avoid splatting one!  There was also some large bird creature that attempting to run into the side of our van, Chris swerving to avoid it.  In the end one bird did meet its maker, it was purely unavoidable, luckily there was no blood & gore.  Everything was going along nicely until we hit the 25km unsealed portion.  While it wasn't raining at the moment, we hadn't really considered the previous 12 hours of rain that had fallen ... the road was a muddy, slippery mess.  I was quite happy that Chris had lived on the East coast and could utilize his now driving skills -- boy were they needed! Somehow we managed to not get stuck and to stay on the road.  We thought about turning back a few times, but after having already passed through some pretty hairy patches, I figured we should at least be rewarded with the views (and pictures)!  Prior to the muddy mess we had planned to stop at Tapotupotu Bay and hike out to Cape Reinga ... that plan was quickly nixed once we realized what a mess it was.  The views did end up being pretty terrific -- the fog had lifted just enough to provide great visibility.  We didn't stay too long though, as we didn't want to be the last ones to leave (we wanted someone behind us in case we got stuck).  The drive back actually didn't seem quite as bad ... a few interested skids here and there, but we managed just fine.  Billavan of course was a HUGE muddy mess!

Day 4
(click on map to enlarge)
After utilize the pressure water car wash hose (leaving behinds heaps and heaps of mud), when ventured South along the Western coast.  Prior to departing Ahipara we checked into riding blokarts, however there wasn't enough wind and we hadn't hit the tide correctly, bummed we moved on.  We followed the Twin Coast Discovery Highway to Kohukahu where we caught the ferry over to Rawene.  From there it was on to Opononi and Omapere.  Huge sand dunes loomed across the bay - supposedly perfect for sand boarding.  We left sand boarding for another day and instead ventured out to the Hokianga South Head where we enjoyed a 30 minute walk -amongst more breathe-taking views.

A bit further down the road we took another side track out to the Waiotemarama Gorge.  An extremely short trail led us to a small waterfall.  Next door to the path entrance was a game shop with an interesting back-woods-type owner.  This guy was towering tall (like a Kauri tree) with a bush full white beard.  He was extremely friendly and challenged each of us to a puzzle (I actually solved mine without his help!). The shop's location is interesting ... located next to the trail it is literally out in the middle of nowhere.  We drove about 10km on a dirt & gravel road into the backwoods to find the place!  It might be lonely, but it sure was an awesome location! Our friends from Whisper (Robin & Duncan) had told us about the shop as well, and we were impressed that the shop owner remembered them (then again I'm guessing he isn't packed with customers on a daily basis).

Down the road we set out on foot again along the Tane Mahuta, Te Matua Ngahere, and Four Sisters tracks.  The first track took us to the largest living Kauri tree, which until I just re-read the pamphlet we had thought was the oldest not largest.  The estimate the Tane Mahuta to be about 2000 years old.  Its dimensions are:  Total height 51.5m, trunk girth 13.6m, trunk height 17.7m, and volume 244.5m3!  The second track took us to the second largest living Kauri tree, and the final track took us to four large Kauri's growing rather close together.  We had intending to also walk the longer Yakas track (where the 7th largest Kauri lives), but it was closed due to mud and flooding.

Just down the road was a DOC (Department of Conservation) campsite.  By far this had been the best day of weather yet!  The sun had been out all day, it was warm, and not a drop of rain.  We enjoyed the remainder of the day reading under the sun while snacking on cheese, crackers, & wine.



Day 5
(click on map to enlarge)
It seems we have hit New Zealand during one of their coldest & wettest summers!  We again awoke to rain and heavy cloud cover.  We also realized that during our outdoor relaxation the night before we had been attacked by sand flies!  We started the morning off with a drive (too wet to hike) up to a lookout point overlooking part of the Waipoua Forest, followed by a visit to Trounson Kauri Park for a short walk.  In Trounson Park we learned a couple of interesting facts about possums, such as:  an estimated 22,000 tons of vegetation a NIGHT are consumed by possums in NZ; and possums are NZ's number one enemy against wildlife!  We also found a little privately owned Kauri Woodshop, where we finally found the bowl I've been looking for at a price I could afford.

We drove out to the Kai Iwi Lakes, which looked like a terrific place to hang out and camp, but as it was not even noon yet, we weren't quite ready to settle in for the night.  In Dargaville we stopped at The Woodturners Studio which hosted beautiful wood art (all too expensive for those on a cruiser's salary!), and a cat name KT!!!  Next we visited the local Museum which offered a good view of Dargaville as well as the Rainbow Warrior masts.

We stopped in Matakohe to check out the Kauri Museum.  We opted to just scope out the ground instead of paying to get in, thinking that we will most likely return with our families (coming in the next few months).  From Matakohe we enjoyed a scenic drive along the 16 and then up to Shelly Beach, where we made camp for the night.

Day 6
(click on map to enlarge)
If you can believe it, it was raining ... AGAIN!  At this point you'd think we'd be used to it, but it's just tough when you want the sun to come out!  Thanks to the rain and our lack of desire to hike in it, we did A LOT of driving this day.

We made a quick stop in Auckland, where I sat in the car studying maps while Chris went into a marine store and marine bookstore.  Then it was on to Hamilton and Cambridge.  Two cute little towns South of Auckland.  When we stomped at the Auto store in Cambridge we ran into friends we met back in Suwarrow (Mark & Lisa).  They had purchased a van and were headed down to Rotorua & Lake Taupo.  From Tirau (just past Cambridge) we headed towards the Eastern coast and Tauranga.  We made a quick stop in Matamata to check out Hobbiton (from Lord of the Rings), but at $50 a head we decided we really didn't need to see the movie set!  The entire town was apparently quite proud to have been the host of Hobbiton however, as signs and decorations hung everywhere.

As we traveled up a pretty steep slope towards Tauranga a thick fog settled in around us.  The fog along with the surrounding scenery had a very mystic, very Jurassic feel.  As we drove through Tauranga (we were heading to check out the marinas) we were thrilled to see Sushi signs -- instantly we decided that we would be camping in the Tauranga area.  At the Tauranga Bridge Marina we ran into Roger & Nancy from Equanimity and made dinner plans.  We traveled up the road a bit to Mount Maunganui to grab a campsite before dinner.  The town of Mount Maunganui was quite a bit larger than we had expected and the campsite was terrific.  It reminded us a lot of La Ventana (Mexico) with tons of long-term campers and surfers milling around.

We ended up having Thai instead of Sushi (the Sushi places didn't look so enticing), but it was excellent!  The main Strand of Tauranga was a happening place with many patrons having dinner and drinks underneath heated lambs.  The smells that wafted around the street were to die for!  After a post-dinner stroll we headed back to Mount Maunganui for such much needed rest.


Day 7

(click on map to enlarge)
Although it rained off and on through the night we woke up to dry skies and a bit of sun trying to break through.  We took advantage of the good weather with a hike up Mount Maunganui to check out the views.  It was a bit steeper than I was mentally prepared for, but with Chris trudging along ahead of me (and me being to stubborn to quit) I managed to pull myself to the top ... once I saw the views I was glad I did!

After showers and a drive their the beaches of Mount Maunganui (which reminded us a lot of home) we headed up the coast to the Coromandel Peninsula.  Along the way we came across an interesting vehicle, which we later figured was part of a Gypsy Flea Market that we passed.

The route up to the Coromandel Peninsula provided more breath-taking views!  We made brief stops in Katikati and Waihi.  In Whangamata we stopped at the local i-center (information center) and picked up another half a dozen or so pamphlets on the various activities (including camping & hiking) in New Zealand ... at this point I think we have information overload!

 
We were tempted to stop at the Hot Water Beach, but with the rain still pouring down, digging our own hot water salt-water spa didn't sound appealing to either of us.  Just before Whitianga we hung a left onto the 309 Road.  It was an extremely narrow (not to mention bumpy) road, but the views were well worth the bouncing around (as long as you don't get car sick!).  We stopped for two little walks to view more Kauri trees and another waterfall (this time seeing a Siamese Kauri tree and a Kauri Patch).

The town of Coromandel was a very cute town.  It seemed clean and old-fashioned with a single main street lined with small shops and markets.  We continued down the Western coast of Coromandel Peninsula, stopping near Tapu for more scenic lookouts.


Just passed the town of Thames we hooked a left to take a look at the Kauaeranga Valley.  It was our intention to camp within the forest and then do a four hour hike the following morning.  By the time we reached the visitor center (to check-in/pay) they were closed.  We drove around the area, but many of the campsites also looked closed.  Not sure what the deal was, we returned to town, camping at Dickson's Park just North of Thames.  When we piled out of the van we were immediately greeted by a rush of ducks.  Chris walked up to use the bathroom and I dug out some bread ... by the time Chris returned I was fully surrounded.  Although he gave me a hard time, he instantly took over the feeding!  They were fearless, talkative animals, and we thoroughly entertained by their quacking, waddling, and jumping.



Day 8
(click on map to enlarge)
Surprise, Surprise -- it rained ALL night and into the morning.  In addition the forecast was calling for more rain.  It was not looking good for our Kauaeranga Valley hike.  We lounged around for quite awhile, hiding from the rain inside the van with our books.  Finally we hit the road.  We followed the coast around to Clevedon, where Chris spotted a herd of Banded Cows!  We had been looking for them from the start of the trip so that I could get a picture.  The are cute buggers, with a single white band around their mid-section ... and a bit more furry then "normal" cows.

As we closed in on Manukau and Highway 1, we could see Auckland and the Sky Tower in the distance.  We also noticed that this area seemed to be populated by a much richer crown, with each estates towering over acres of land.

We continued on our way back "home" (towards Whangarei), taking the Eastern route this time.  The continuous rain and boisterous winds squashed our desire to stop at any of the many Auckland area Regional Parks.  In Silverdale we pulled over to check out the supposed Outlet Stores, but it turned out to be a bit of a disappointment (not quite what we were expecting).  At Warkworth we took the Matakana Wine Coast and visited three wineries; Ascension, Heron's Flight, and Matakana Estate (our favorite was Ascension).  Everyone was extremely friendly, and we were surprised to find the wineries quite full with the weather conditions such that they were.

Billavan had been acting up more and more ... some kind of problem where it seems to lose power going up hills -- we had thought it was a fuel line problem because in the beginning it only happened when the tank was less than half full, but on this day it seemed to happen all the time.  Because of this we decided not to take the coastal route (which included unsealed and potentially unpopulated roads), and rather headed straight back to Whangarei.

I now understand why Chris wanted to travel/live in Billavan ... when we returned to Billabong, she seemed HUGE!  The bed was gigantic, and it was the BEST nights sleep ever!!!

Phew!  What a whirlwind of a trip!  All the rain was a bit of a bummer, but the scenery was just fabulous.  We can't wait to explore the southern by of the North Island and the entire South Island!
Continue reading "Road Trip - NZ Northland"...

Passage Tonga to New Zealand

Tonga to New Zealand Passage
10/31/04 - 11/08/04



Just to give you the basics, we made it to NZ safe and sound, landing in Opua on Nov 8th.  It was a windy, bumpy passage, but no major storms to fret over.  We did have 40 knots most of the trip, and Chris spent most of the time in the cockpit, while KT stayed below and laid down in the center of the boat to decrease the effects of the motion. The boat would rock one way, and take water over that side and then roll the other way with either a big splash or water flooding the decks. We were VERY happy to have the hard dodger.


New Zealand (Arrival and First month)
11/8/04 - 12/10/04

We LOVE NZ and we LOVE traveling on land for a bit.  We purchased a van which Chris then did some handy work on so that we can sleep/camp in it.  The van of course has a name ... Billavan!  We have moved Billabong to Whangarei where she will remain for the season while we explore the North and South Island on Billavan.


Continue reading "Passage Tonga to New Zealand"...

Vava’u Group –Tonga

9/20/04 – 10/31/04
By KT

Week 1 (9/20 – 9/26)
Neiafu (main town)

After our unexpected “rough” passage, it was more than a relief to hook onto a mooring ball.  I was definitely ready to get off the boat.  But first, we needed a quick nap for revival purposes … after that it was off to a “reunion party”.   Everybody was here; all rejoined after taking our separate routes through the Cook Islands.  We all met up at the Mermaid for dinner and drinks (and more drinks).  It was never our intention to get so rowdy (‘er drunk), but I suppose between the passage we’d just finished and being back with everyone, things just took on their own pace.  It was quite the night with music, dancing, lots & lots of laughing, and story telling as we all caught up.  All was going along smoothly until I performed a Humpty Dumpty over a rock wall.  It all happened quite fast, one minute I was talking to Michael (de la Mer) & Doug (Solstice), the next minute I was somersaulting headfirst backwards over a knee level wall (which I had somehow backed into, and in my unsteady state was not able to keep my balance), into the rocks & water below.  Mary (de la Mer), came jumping over the wall into the water after me … apparently she thought the water was deep and was worried I would drown.  We both stood there in waist-level water looking at each other.  The men promptly pulled us back up the wall, where I apologized profusely both for my act of stupidity and for destroying Chris’s good camera (which was in my backpack when I toppled over and now full of sea water).



The next morning I awoke to see what Chris lovingly termed “Neanderthal woman” in the mirror.  I guess the rocks and my face didn’t get along.  I had quite a few scrapes on my cheekbone and eyebrow, but it was the swelling that caused the majority of distortion.  Later (in town) I would discover that I was now famous … everyone had heard about my graceful back-flip.  I (along with everyone) realize that I was quite lucky nothing more serious happened, but, post-event, knowing I came out okay, everyone (including myself) had a good laugh, and I was (actually still am) the subject of quite a few jokes.

We spent the next few days exploring and enjoying a real town; electricity, Internet, markets, fresh veggies, laundry service (my favorite) and restaurants (my second favorite).  We met “Pete the Meat”, who sold a huge variety of frozen-fresh (if that’s not a contradiction) meats.  We went to the outdoor market, where we excitedly purchased funky looking carrots, the world’s tiniest bell peppers, & tasty cucumbers.  We ate out almost every night, eating twice at The Dancing Rooster where we feasted on fresh lobster dishes (including lobster ravioli & red curry lobster).  We finished the week with card-day, playing with de la Mer & Island Sonata at the Mermaid.

Week 2 (9/27 –10/3)

After a week of splurging, exploring, relaxing, & eating (Chris later came up with the term, Tonga-10 for all the weight we gained), we decided we were ready to explore some of the other anchorages.  On Tuesday we moved to Nuapapu South (off of Vaka’eitu Island).  We had thought we would be “getting away” from everyone, but as it turns out Emerald, de la Mer, Island Sonata & Gumbo Ya Ya (just to name a few) were all in this anchorage as well.  In an attempt at some seclusion, we first tried to anchor around the bend from all the other boats.  This was also our first introduction to anchoring in Tonga, which we later confirmed sucks!  After about five tries, where the hook wasn’t even close to setting, we moved around to the main anchorage.  It took us two attempts to get the anchor to set, however when Billabong came to a rest we felt we were too close to Emerald.  After a few minutes we finally decided we would indeed have to move.  Who knows how many more attempts we spent trying to get the anchor to set … enough that Island Sonata came over to make fun of us asking, “Is this the first time you’ve anchored this boat?”.  We finally gave up and moved (again) to where we hoped would be better holding.  Two more attempts later we FINALLY hooked on!  We figured we spent at least 2 hours anchoring!  On the bright side, we now had lots and lots of hot water (since we had run the engine for so long).

The next day we went ashore with de la Mer to do a bit of exploring.  We checked out a resort on Vaka’eitu (which we learned only cost $200/year to lease the land!).  The resort looked cute, and the idea romantic, but after look inside one of the lodges, I was very happy to be here on Billabong.  The following morning Whisper arrived, just in time to join us on Billabong for hot Banana bread.  Afterwards we hooked up with de la Mer for some snorkeling.  We tried a number of different spots, but all we really found was a lot of dead coral, and some interesting sea urchins.  We tried again the next day, and were rewarded with some terrific snorkeling on the outside of the reef … great coral and lots of “Nemos” (our name for any sea anemone fish).  Afterwards we lifted anchor and headed back to Neifu.

Saturday was the “Kiwi Kickoff Party” (a cruiser party to celebrate everyone’s successful arrival to Tonga).  The party organizers also put together a number of “awards” recognizing those less-than-ideal moments of cruising.  We were the proud winners of three such awards:  “The prodigal dinghy of shame award” (for ‘the runaway dinghy that never returned’, also acknowledging the knot [that doesn’t work] now named after Chris – Billa-bowline);  “The Soused Swan Award” (for ‘the most spectacular unsynchronized acrobatic diving exhibition’, aka KT’s humpty-dumpty act);  and “The Papa Passed a Kidney Stone Award”.

We finished off the weekend with Canasta at the Mermaid with Island Sonata & Waking Dream  (who had just arrived in Neiafu Saturday).

Week 3 (10/4 – 10/10)

Monday was another “hang around” day, where we ran some errands around town (internet, market, etc) and did a bit around the boat (miscellaneous projects & cleaning).  Tuesday we moved over to Tapana / Afo Island.  After three frustrating tries at getting our hook to set we moved over to a mooring ball owned by the Ark Gallery (a little house-like art gallery that floats in the middle of the anchorage).  Donna threw an all girls party aboard Ocean Girl (her husband Ralph was back in Canada), while Bob from Stardust hosted the boys.  Neither party got too rowdy … the girls did a lot of eating and chatting while the boys ate spaghetti and played cards & liars dice.

The following morning we said goodbye to Emerald as they headed to the Ha’apai Group.  We headed over to La Paella (little Spanish restaurant across the bay), where Maajhi-Re, Gumbo Ya Ya, Ascension, and the local owner were having a jam session.  We are still amazed at the musical talent that exists.  We are even more amazed that Kurt manages to fit an entire drum set aboard Gumbo Ya Ya!  Afterwards we had de la Mer over for cheese fondue (which didn’t turn out so good, but we ate it anyway).

Thursday we moved over to Port Maurelle, where our anchor set FIRST try (we were ecstatic).  After a quick dip in the anchorage to see the local Nemo fish, we caught a ride in Whisper’s dinghy (Shout) and headed over to Swallow’s cave for sunset drinks.  It felt like a Disneyland ride as we entered the cave … unfortunately the graffiti dampened the Disney atmosphere.

The following afternoon, we enjoyed some terrific snorkeling just outside Swallow’s cave.  There were a variety of coral colors, tons of Nemos (which I could watch and play with for hours), and even a big ‘ol lobster.  Later that evening we ventured over to a beach party / bon fire … more excellent food, great company, and just plain good times!

We enjoyed the snorkeling so much that we went back on Saturday with Whisper & Island Sonata.  Later that evening we all hooked up aboard Whisper and feasted on pizza, chocolate soufflés, and wine.  And interesting combination, but it was all fabulous (and Chris was thrilled to here me say the soufflés were not that hard to make)!

I had signed up for Scuba diving lessons, so on Sunday we headed back to town (Neiafu).  Following our Sunday tradition, we played Canasta at the Mermaid with Bobulona & Waking Dream.  We then enjoyed another terrific lobster meal at The Dancing Rooster.

Week 4 (10/11 – 10/17)

By this time we had more-or-less decided that we would depart to New Zealand from the Vava’u Group.  We had initially thought we would head to the Ha’apai Group, followed by checking out Nuku’alofa before heading to New Zealand.  But after all the moving about over the last few months we were both enjoying the protected anchorages of Vava’u and had no huge desire to move on!  In addition, our friends from the states who were going to fly in to Nuku’alofa and crew with us down to NZ were unable to make it so we no longer had to be in Nuku’alofa.  This decision really allowed us to relax and take our time in both explorations as well as boat preparations.

I enjoyed my scuba lessons over the next three days.  Meanwhile Chris completed various projects aboard Billabong in preparation for our NZ passage.  I’ll admit, he got the short end of the stick on that one! He was a great sport about it though!  Diving was great fun.  The instructor was terrific, and the class included people I already knew.  On our graduation day we went on three open water dives.  It included a lot of firsts for me, including a Lion fish, color changing coral, and a sea anemone that closed up into this bulb-like thing!

Thursday I caught up on my chores (internet, bakery, market, etc) while Chris wrapped up his boat projects.  Friday I treated Chris to a dive outing (the Whisper’s came along too).  There were lots of chutes & tunnels in our first dive, but the second dive won all our votes with the wide variety of fish and live coral (and Chris got to see the cool color changing coral).  On the dives with us was a group from California who were chartering a catamaran.  They were another reminder to us of how lucky we are to be able to be living this life instead of just visiting it.  Vacations are great, and definitely needed, but man is it wonderful to be able to experience these things for longer than two weeks at a time!  We are continuously thankful!!!

We ended the day with drinks & dinner at the Mermaid in celebration of Ralph’s (Ocean Girl) return.  The next two days were quite mellow with card playing (including Chris becoming addicted to the computer card game, Spider), web updates, and reading.

Week 5 (10/18 –10/24)

Monday was another chore day in preparation for another week out-and-about among the anchorages of Vava’u.  We also had a marvelous dinner aboard Ocean Girl (she served an awesome red curry chicken dish, which I now make regularly!).

Tuesday we attempted to move to Mafana Island.  It was a beautiful day with excellent sailing conditions.  We were having a great time, until the critical decision-making point.  At our current speed we would arrive Mafana just as the sun was setting.  IF we couldn’t get the anchor to set we would be in a hard spot because coming back through the channel (through a reef) in low light could be hazardous.  We decided to go for it anyway.  It was a terrific spot, and no one was around.  BUT, of course our anchor wouldn’t set.  It wouldn’t even grab a bite at all (no matter how slow I backed down).  After half a dozen tries we aborted and headed back.  The lighting sucked, but luckily we also had our GPS track from our way in.  We made it safely and headed to Tapana / Afo Island.  This time we didn’t even bother trying to anchor, we headed straight for a mooring ball.

We lazily lounged around the following day, enjoy the much missed sunshine.  Whisper also arrived, and we rowed over with them to scope out the Ark Gallery (we hadn’t actually visited it on our first stay in this anchorage).  She hand paints a variety of landscapes, portraits, and boat scenes.  They are all really well done, but quite pricey.  We enjoyed talking to the owner and her husband – both cruisers who arrived in Tonga ten years ago.

Thursday we found some good snorkeling at the island across the way from the anchorage.  At least it was all good until I got a jelly fish sting across my mouth & cheek!  OUCH!!! For dinner we joined Whisper on an outing to La Paella.  We brought along two bottles of California wine, which we all drooled over (Whisper couldn't believe that we still had CA wine, and that we were willing to SHARE it!!!).  Dinner was great, and the music was lively (the owners put on a show).  We all got to join in as Percussion-type instruments (shakers, bongos, etc) were passed around.  Those who know me will be happy to learn that tone-def, beat-deprived me did not partake in the music-making festivities!!!

History was made on Friday, when Chris discovered FOUR gray/white hairs … on MY head!  I was convinced he was lying, but sure enough, he plucked them, and they were really white, not just sun bleached!!!  I was most surprised to find I wasn’t at all upset, actually just entertained!

Island Sonata showed up and we got together for some more Canasta playing.

Saturday we taxied into Nieafu to use the internet and buy a few fresh veggies at the market.  We spent the rest of the day reading, followed by a quite dinner & movie.

Sunday we hopped aboard Island Sonata, with Whisper, for a pancake breakfast.  Island Sonata then took us all over (via their boat) to Mariner’s Cave.  Along the way we picked up Waking Dream and Freebird.  It was a fun sail on the catamaran.  The girls enjoyed sitting up front on the trampoline (until we all got drenched).  Entering Mariner's Cave required a short under water dive, where you popped up inside a very dark cave.  The underwater portion was short, but it’s an interesting mind game convincing yourself that you’ll be able to surface sometime soon!

Week 6 (10/25 – 10/31)

We were now giving serious thought to when we should actually leave for New Zealand.  We started watching the weather more closely, and wrapping up all our preparation projects.  Before moving back to Neiafu we had Waking Dream, de La Mer, and Ocean Girl over for a “good-bye” dinner.  de la Mer would be leaving their boat in Tonga under the supervision of the Ark Gallery owners, who would then deliver their boat back to Southern California next season. They plan to first visit Fiji & New Zealand (via air), so we hope to catch up with them before they return to the states.  Waking Dream decided to stay in Tonga for the hurricane season.  They both had a number of potential business ideas.  Hopefully we’ll catch up with them next season.

We moved back to Neiafu on Thursday.  Thursday and Friday were spent with last minute details, including checking out, provisioning, passage meal cooking, and weather watching.  We managed to fit in a bit of fun, enjoying huge burgers at Bounty Burger, and celebrating Halloween at Anna’s Café.

After one last visit to the internet, we moved to Port Maurelle.  We were ready to go … or at least we hoped so.  This is the one passage that everyone talks about and stresses over.  Supposedly everyone gets their ass whooped on this one.  We figured it would take us 10 days if things went well, and up to 15 if things went bad.  Personally, I was tired of watching the weather and trying to pick the perfect window (good thing Chris has more patience then me).  I was tired of worrying, tired of preparing, and ready to just BE THERE!  I was very, very excited that we were about to be in New Zealand.  We were about to finish up our first year of cruising.  What had once seemed so far away, both in miles and time was now just days away!

According to the weather gurus, Sunday the weather window would be closing … it was go now or stay for another two weeks.  With Whisper in front of us, and Ocean Girl behind us we left Tonga behind.  New Zealand, here we come!

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