After six months on land I wasn't so sure what to expect from our upcoming passage to Fiji. Would we get right back into the swing of things or would it take us days / weeks to adjust? I was also a little apprehensive about our next year of cruising. New Zealand had spoiled us; cheap phones, fast internet, endless grocery stores, and let's not forget not a single day of sea sickness! All of this in one of the most spectacular places I've ever been. On the other hand I was ready to go. I was tired of traffic, of "crowds" (any population over 100 now constitutes as a crowd!), and especially of spending so much money. I was ready to relax again, swaying in a tropical breeze reading endless books.
Ready or not, we departed Opua, New Zealand on Sunday May 8th. This passage would be different for us in that we also had two "crew" aboard. Chris's cousin Andy and Andy's 14 year old daughter, Riley, had joined us from Alaska. We hadn't yet cruised with other people on board and weren't sure how "small" the boat would get. We headed out of the Bay of Islands with two boats following (MagMell and Stardust) and a couple more to leave the next day (Ascension and Freebird). It's always comforting to know we wouldn't be out there alone!
While the passage ended up being pretty unremarkable, there were a few days of nervousness at the beginning when Chris spotted a huge "bomb" on the weather fax to the East of us (Bomb = cyclone = high wind and large waves = YIKES). It was far enough away that we were currently quite safe, but we had to keep a close eye to ensure it didn't move our way. It also meant that we didn't make much Easting in our first days out as we didn't want to risk heading anywhere in the vicinity of the storm. By Friday we had safely cleared it and could head East (not to mention breathe easier). Of course by then the wind wasn't fully cooperating, making it a struggle to get East.
This was Andy and Riley's first sailing ocean passage. They handled it great. Boredom being their biggest hurtle. Riley would play hour upon hour of electronic Yahtzee while Andy would spend time staring out at the vast Ocean while listening to Music. I loved it when Andy said to Riley, "Don't you want to stand up and look around?" She replied, "Why? It's just water!!!". I couldn't agree more!
It was a bit strange for Chris and I as we tried to get into the cruising groove with two extra people aboard. Cruising with four defiantly has its bonuses as well as inconveniences. Andy was a superb helper; cooking, doing dishes, and providing us with an additional night watcher. We had added entertainment with Yahtzee tournaments and Wheel of Fortune championships. I'll admit though, that I missed the cruising rhythms and space of just the two of us. Also I felt like Chris and I became huge nags - as so many things on the boat had to be done a certain way. I hated constantly pestering and nagging about one thing or another - and I'm sure it got old with Andy and Riley as well (although they handled it like stars!). In total it all worked out well and we enjoyed their company and were enjoying the added entertainment of viewing cruising through their eyes!
Hove-to: Basically, setting the sails and rudder such that the boat is not making way.
As usual we had radio contact with the other vessels making the passage. We were all quite near though we never saw another boat. The other vessels were making landfall in Suva (on Vita Levu), while we were heading to Savusavu (on Vanua Levu). We had a few slow days; slow enough that Andy asked, "At what point do you start the engine?". Ha Ha. Basically, we have to be just about standing still to motor (or trying to avoid a weather system). At one point Andy even offered to pay for the diesel if we would just motor! They were able to take advantage of the light winds when we hove-to and Andy and Riley jumped over board for a swim and bath.
About three to four days out of Savusavu it started to warm up. Ahh yes, to be back in the tropics - foul weather gear traded for shorts, beanie caps swapped for sun hats ... heading back to paradise.
About two days out Chris and I started talking about potentially having to slow the boat down. This was a bit of a shock to Andy and Riley, who after 8 days on a bumpy sailboat were ready for land. "What do you mean you're going to slow down?" Andy asked. We tried to explain that if it didn't look like we could make it during daylight then we have to slow down so that we arrive the following morning. As it turned out we did end up reducing sail to slow the boat. Andy still wasn't convinced, trying to persuade us that speed was better. But we couldn't have made it in daylight on the 17th, so our best option was to slow and try to time it for a morning arrival on the 18th. As Murphy's Law would go - just as we attempt to slow, the winds continued to rise, and we couldn't get the boat to go slow enough! So, around midnight we had to heave-to outside the islands and wait for morning. Because the winds had picked up so had the swell - making it an uncomfortable night as the boat rolled side to side in the swell and the main sail slammed and banged echoing through the entire boat. In the morning I asked Andy, " So, after last night don't you wish we had slowed down earlier so we wouldn't have had to heave-to?". He still wouldn't give in - he preferred making speed for the guarantee that land would be there when the sun rose!
It was a beautiful sail into the bay as we looked up to green hillsides scattered with palm trees. We had to practically drag Riley on deck (from bed) to take in the sights. I think that early in the morning she wasn't impressed!
At 8:30am on Wednesday, May 18th (1200 nautical miles later), we picked up a mooring ball in Savusavu Bay, immensely enjoying the now steady boat. Chris and I got a great chuckle when Riley said "Is that the WHOLE town?" as we all stood on deck peering at the 4 or 5 buildings on the single road across the bay. Savusavu is one of the bigger towns Chris and I have been to during our 1-1/2 years of cruising!!!
covering South-East Coast, North Island and far South, South Island
2/26/05 - 3/24/05
by KT
Feb 26 - We headed to Auckland to hook up with our friend from Ventura, Phil (who now resides in New Zealand). We all traveled down to Kadikadi where we enjoyed a great dinner with some of Phil's friends and a few folks Chris had met in his New Zealand journeys two years back.
Feb 27 - Back to Auckland, where we hook up with Robin and Duncan (Whisper) for beers and Sushi. Overnight stay at the now very familiar Auckland airport holiday park!
Feb 28 - Airport pickup of Art and Penny and then back to Whangarei. Our fourth Christmas this year as we receive canned chicken, "just add water" mixes, silicone bake wear, and much much more! Lunch, naps, catching up, dinner, and off to bed.
March 1 - And we're off! Back to Auckland to visit the Auckland Museum which was hosting a quilting show (Penny is a HUGE (and fantastic) quilter). Another amazing museum (Chris and I are so impressed with the New Zealand museums). Drive on to Hamilton.
March 2 - Visit to the Hamilton Gardens. In Cambridge we stop at a terrific quilting store and Chris discovers Vintage Aged Gouda (at the wine/cheese store next door) ... which quickly becomes one of our favorite cheeses. Continue driving towards the Rotorua / Lake Taupo area. We stayed in between the two at Golden Springs, where we soaked in thermal pools, KT learned to cross-stitch, and the boys (Chris and Art) cooked a great BBQ dinner.
March 3 - Hike and Boat ride in the Waimangu Volcanic Valley. Take SH5 out to Napier (East Cost). Enjoy Pizza and Tapas for dinner.
March 4 - Explore Napier (store browsing and internet use). Visit a couple wineries in Hastings, where we enjoy a wine and cheese lunch in the vineyard! Drive on to Carterton, where Art and Penny stay in a terrific B&B and Chris and I camp in the B&B's yard!!!
March 5 - Visit the street fair in Martinborough (which ends up being HUGE).
March 6 - Drive to Wellington. A quick hour in the Te Papa Museum before catching the ferry over to Picton. Art and Penny treat us to a hotel stay (hooray real beds)
March 7 - Meet up with Ralph and Donna (Ocean Girl) for coffee before heading to Nelson. (Another treat from Art and Penny as they put us up with them in the B&B)
March 8 - After breakfast with Art & Penny, we say goodbye. Art & Penny are joining a group of eight or so on a 3 week day-hiking tour. We suspect we'll see them here and there along the way and then again in Christchurch before they depart. Chris & I head South, planning on 6 to 8 hours of driving in order to get far South where we will begin our leisurely tour. The Billavan has other ideas as it stutters & hiccups along. Eventually we end up backtracking about 100 clicks (km) to Christchurch where we hope to get the car fixed. March 9 - A visit to the Mitsubishi dealer, who sends us to their partner shop, who can't see us until the 10th. We spend the day walking around Christchurch, visiting the art center, Canterbury Museum, and Botanic Gardens.
March 10 - Drop the car off at the mechanic (the car is of course now running perfect). Chris runs into another guy who has the exact same car, and is apparently having a similar problem! More walking around Christchurch, browsing sports shops, while Chris continues to check in on the car. Turns out they find NOTHING wrong (of course). We decide to just go anyway, what the heck have we got to lose? Leave late afternoon and head South ... right into a cold front, and man is it COLD! We even see the wind change directions - man is it eerie, I was ready for a twister to start up right then and there! End our travels at a holiday park in Timaru.
March 11 - Continue south along the coast, stopping in Moeraki to check out the touristy Moeraki boulders. Drive out Shag Point (mostly because of its name), where we spot two yellow-eyed penguins in the far far distance (not moving because they are molting). Continue on to Dunedin and the Otago Peninsula. Sneak a peak at the Larnach Castle (as we are too cheap to actually pay to go inside) and then head to Sandfly Beach for penguin watching. Spend about 2-3 hours in the Penguin hide ... but only spot one penguin (who, like the others, isn't moving, or fun at all to watch). As it is raining and we forgot our rain jackets in the car we finally give up :( Stay the night in Dunedin.
March 12 - Tunnel Beach Walk. Drive the Southern Scenic Route (through the Catlins). Stop at Nugget Point (check out the playing sea lions & lighthouse), Owaka Quilt Store, Purakaunui Waterfall, and finally Curio Bay. Curio bay is host to the fossil/petrified forest. Next, it's up to the Penguin hide and more waiting ... man is it COLD! Finally after about 2 hours ONE yellow-eyed penguin comes in (from fishing). And HOORAY he walks, waddles, jumps, and looks around, before disappearing into his nest!
March 13 - Drive out to Waipapa Point (another lighthouse and more sea lions). About five of us are on the beach taking photos of two sea lions playing, when one of the big guys decides he is territorial and CHASES (yes chases, and damn he moves fast) us!!! Car is acting up, but we finally make it to Te Anau (where we plan to park it for 4 days or so).
March 14 - Although the day starts with a low hanging thick realm of fog, by 11am it is crystal clear blue. We relax about Te Anau; taking pictures of the lake, visiting the wildlife (bird) sanctuary, doing a bit of laundry, and just enjoying the fantastic weather.
March 15 - Bike and Cruise Milford Sound. We end up being the only two people on this tour, which is terrific. We are picked up in Te Anau and driven up Milford Road to Hummer Tunnel. On the other side of the tunnel we hop on the bikes and ride ALL DOWNHILL into Milford, where we jump on a small cruise boat and head out for a 2 hour Milford Sound Cruise. Our guide picks us up and drives us back up to the Hummer Tunnel, and this time we ride ALL DOWNHILL down the other side! After lunch next to turquoise rapids of a river, we are driven back to Te Anau, making lots of photograph stops, including Mirror Lake and a Nature Walk through a forest of greens like we've never seen. We also end up running into Doug & Angela (Solstice) at the holiday park!
March 16 - Kayaking Doubtful Sound. Another outstanding tour. We are picked up in Te Anau, and along with 6 other people, taken on a 45 minute boat ride across Lake Manapouri. Next a short scenic bus ride over to another boat in Doubtful Sounds. The boat takes us deep into the Fiord (yes both Milford and Doubtful are really Fiords and not Sounds... they were improperly named a long time again). We hop into kayaks and enjoy a beautiful, flat, scenic day of kayaking Doubtful. We get to see it all again as we make our way back to Te Anau ... we just never get tired of the views, seem they change hourly!!!
March 17 - On to Wanaka. Art and Penny's group are also in Wanaka, so we hook up with them later in the afternoon and enjoy a great dinner with their group.
March 18 - Diamond Lake Track (hike) in Wanaka, with Art & Penny (and their group). This hike takes us up, up, & up, providing 360° views over Lake Wanaka and into Mount Aspiring National Park. We enjoy another terrific dinner with the group and some hot tubbing with Art & Penny.
March 19 - We're back on our own again (Art and Penny have headed towards Queenstown). We hitchhike into Mount Aspiring National Park, and go on one of our best hikes yet ... Rob Roy Valley. Even with the overcast skies and light rains we are thoroughly impressed with this tramp. We're lucky enough to find an easy ride back to our holiday park, and therefore treat ourselves to dinner out (with the money we saved by not having to pay for the shuttle into the Park!).
March 20 - A visit to Wanaka's Puzzling World in the morning and then on to Mount Cook. It's a holiday park with a view as we look down a valley directly at the towering Mount Cook. And what a treat, not only do the clouds lift enough for us to see the top, but the sunset warms the sky with changing shades of pinks and reds.
March 21 - We wanted to do the Hooker Valley Track (at Mount Cook), but the low clouds covered Mount Cook, and we figured it would be pointless if we couldn't see the views. Plus we had departed Wanaka a day early, so we were ahead of schedule. Instead we relaxed around the holiday park.
March 22 - Still some clouds in the sky, but we figured it was as good as it was going to get, so we headed off to do the Hooker Valley Track. We knew that Art and Penny (and group) would also be doing this hike today, but we had no idea what time they would start. Just at the entrance to the track, Chris looked out and saw their two distinct white vans making there way up the Mount Cook road ... we decided to wait and gave Art and Penny a pleasant surprise as we stood their waving when they pulled up. After the hike we departed ways again, Chris and I heading towards Christchurch. We hadn't decided how far we'd drive, but the van ended up running great, so we made it all the way into Christchurch.
March 23 - We had an appointment at the mechanic later in the afternoon, so we entertained ourselves with a movie at New Zealand's largest movie screen before heading over to the hotel where we were meeting Art and Penny. After our hellos, Chris took the car to the mechanic, Art and Penny went out to explore the museum and gardens, and I kicked back with my computer and the T.V.! Of course the car was running great (now that we were somewhere we could actually get it fixed), so the mechanic couldn't do anything!!!
March 24 - Art, Penny, Chris and I shuttled out to Akaroa for "swimming with the dolphins". While we spotted a few (cute little guys, the Hector dolphin is the smallest dolphin), we didn't get a chance to get real close or interact with them ... it was a fun adventure none-the-less!
March 25 - Art and Penny were off ... heading home. After all our goodbyes Chris and I headed towards Picton. Although we made a few stops, we just kept on driving, actually making it to Picton that night, and taking a night ferry over to Wellington.
March 26 - We started making our way back 'home'. We hadn't planned on driving so much in one day, but the van was more or less running okay, and it was raining so we weren't real enthusiastic to get out of the car ... we ended up making it all the way to Auckland ... where we stayed at our "favorite" holiday park.
March 27 - Easter Sunday! We called up Robin and Duncan and met them at their boat, Whisper. We were lucky enough to find a cafe open on a holiday Sunday where we caught up over breakfast. We hung out with Robin and Duncan all day and ended up staying over on Whisper. We were glad to spend the time with them as they will be staying in New Zealand this next year instead of moving on (with us) ... so we'll miss them!
March 28 - Back to Whangarei. Hooray, home again! After all this time in the van, the boat felt like a mansion!
Beyond - Since then we have been getting the boat ready ... double checking systems, washing the bottom, provisioning, etc etc etc. We've also taken time-out for BBQ's with our friends, and for a few goodbyes (to those that aren't following the same track as Chris and I).
We explored Milford Sound via a bike-and-boat tour and Doubtful Sound via a boat-and-kayak tour. Fiordland is an amazing area of the world to explore - beyond breathtaking!
(covering Central & Southern North Island + Northern South Island)
1/22/05 - 2/14/05
by KT
W.I.P. JOURNAL: This journal piece is not quite yet complete. We are frantically trying to get all our pictures uploaded before we depart New Zealand, and therefore lose our cheap & fast internet connections. In order to accomplish that goal we are posting this journal with mostly just pictures, and sparse outline-like text ... we hope that we will be able to update the text at a later date.
Jan 22 - Birthday dinner for Chris with Island Sonata ... cake and pizza (YUM). Chris got kauri wood pieces (for carving) and new shorts (yipee).
Jan 24 - Early airport pickup. Drive to house Sally and Mark have via house swap, in Lake Taupo. Another 'lucky' car breakdown in Cambridge (where car breaks down just as we arrive at gas station with Auto Supplies store next door). House is HUGE! We have lunch in town and then enjoy fantastic sunset on the lake. Jan 25 - Volcanic activity day: Craters of the moon walk. Thermal wonderland (amazing colors), and Kerosene Creek (where Chris impresses us with his knowledge about brain amoebas).
Jan 26 - Tonagriro National Park. 2 Hr waterfall hike (Taranaki Falls). Another terrific lake sunset.
Jan 27 - Tongariro Crossing (8hr tramp) ... terrific tramp, but very tiring. Rocky, volcanic, colorful lakes. (OH yeah, yet ANOTHER hose breaks on the car (and we are "lucky" again that it breaks just as we pull into the parking lot!).
Jan 28 - Finally a day of just Relaxing and lounging (hooray!). We watch T.V., Mark and Sally go for a walk on Hot Water Beach and KT does lots of Video editing (I'm making a video of our first year of cruising ... slow going as I don't really know how to use the software yet, we figure I have about 20 hours of my time into the first 6 minutes of video (yikes, at this rate the year 1 video should be done by the time we finish our 5th year of cruising!)
Jan 29 - Chris and Mark do some car work. We all visit Huka Falls (and go for a walk/hike along the river). We check out the Jet Boats and Prawn farm. Island Sonata shows up and spends the evening with us.
Jan 30 - House cleaning, laundry, and relaxing (we're preparing to head down to the South Island). Chris, Mark, & Sally walk down to the beach, where they watch some boat racing. I work on the video some more. Island Sonata spends another night.
Jan 31 - Drive SH1 from Lake Taupo to Lower Hutt (just outside Wellington) ... about 5 hour drive. Dinner with friends of Mark & Sally in Lower Hutt.
Feb 1 - Te Papa museum in Wellington (very very neat museum). It's an overcast/rainy day. Take the ferry over to Picton (South Island). Spend the night in Picton (with lovely train track overhead ... ugh).
Feb 2 - Water taxi/ferry out to Ship's Cove to do part of the Queen Charlotte track. 5hr tramp to Fernaux Lodge (where we catch the taxi/ferry back). Jump in the car for a scenic drive overlooking the Marlborough Sounds. "Camp" at a farm-style holiday park near Havelock.
Feb 3 - Drive to Abel Tasman. Stay at Old Macdonald's Farm (holiday park with pigs, lamas, cows, and sheep). Feb 4 - Day of kayaking in the Abel Tasman ... beautiful turquoise waters and soft white sand beaches. Check out "split apple rock". Perfect weather today, very enjoyable. Meet up with Robin and Duncan (Whisper) in Motueka for dinner.
Feb 5 - Lots of driving today ... drive through Nelson, then South to West Coast. Stop in Westport to visit the Seal Colony, and in Punakaiki to check out the Pancake Rocks. Continue on to Greymouth where we "make camp" and enjoy a terrific sunset over the beach. Amazing views along the entire West Coast.
Feb 6 - More driving ... Drive to Kaikoura via SH7, with a stop in Hamner Springs where Sally originally wanted to visit the Hot Springs, but it was a wicked hot day, so that idea was thrown aside. Kaikoura is a neat town .. visit to the Seal Colony there too.
Feb 7 - Short drive up to Blenheim, where we rent bicycles and go wine touring. Bit windy, and otherwise another day of fantastic weather.
Feb 8 - Take the ferry back over to Wellington (North Island), and drive drive drive ... all the way back to Lake Taupo House. After the last three days, I never want to get in the car again!
Feb 9 - Relax, and rejuvenate! NO DRIVING!
Feb 10 - Get the house cleaned up, do some laundry, and leave the house for good ... drive to Waitomo.
Feb 11 - Enjoy a few shorts walks in the morning (visiting a natural bridge and some caves). In the afternoon join the Black Water Rafting Company for a FANTASTIC caving adventure which included an 100 foot abseiling, flying fox, tubing, tramping through water, sliding, slipping through holes/caves, and climbing waterfalls (oh yeah and millions of glow-worms).
Feb 12 - On to Auckland ... enjoy our last lunch with Mark & Sally at Loaded Hog, where we run into Scott & Nancy (Apsara), who invited us out to Waiheke Island. After dropping off Mark & Sally at the airport we ferry over to Waiheke and enjoyed dinner out with Scott & Nancy.
Feb 13 - Spend the day with Scott and Nancy on Waiheke, visiting a few wineries and going on a very different "Art Walk".
Feb 14 - Chris and I finally head back to Whangarei ... hooray back home again, and very happy to see that Billabong did great in the three weeks without us! Continue reading " Exploring New Zealand with Sally & Mark"...
We seemed to cover a lot of "territory" in this time period ... as usual we captured most of it via our cameras. Since we can never seem to come up with the words to accurately describe the beauty, it just seemed to make sense to do another "photo journal" (not to mention easier). We hope we don't overwhelm you with the quantity of photos in this journal, but we think they are all worth viewing (so grab a cup of 'jo and enjoy!).
The Holidays
After our eight-day tour of the Northland, it was back to Billabong and our 'normal' routines. Lots of email, landline phone calls to the States and general about-the-town activities. I was really hoping for an intimate and somewhat traditional Christmas, so Chris and I decided to invite some of our friends over for a huge Christmas feast. It seems that I started planning the meal weeks ahead of time ... with only two burners and a very tiny oven I wasn't sure how we would pull off the dinner I was dreaming of ... but we more then managed (especially with the help of the grocery store butcher who specially cut the Crown Roast short so that it would fit in our itty bitty oven). Our guests for the evening were John & M.J. (Island Sonata), Duncan & Robin (Whisper), and Fred (Mary C). Seven was a lot to crowd around our little table, but it just added to the ambiance. Dinner turned out fantastic with an Apricot Ginger & Cranberry Brie Pastry appetizer, followed by a 5 course dinner consisting of Crown Roast of Pork with Cranberry-Apple stuffing, fresh Mashed Potatoes and Gravy, Christmas Salad, Homemade dinner rolls, and an awesome Fruit Salad (brought by Island Sonata). Not thinking we could eat another bite, we somehow managed to still get down Oreo Cookie Cheesecake & Pumpkin Swirl Cheesecake ... whoever would of known such a feast could come from such a small galley!
A few days after Christmas we enjoyed a visit from Ralph & Donna (Ocean Girl). They came down from Opua and spent the night with us aboard Billabong. We enjoyed a homemade meat pie (thanks to Donna) and left-over cheesecake.
The next thing we knew the New Year was upon us. Michael & Mary (de la Mer) were visiting and joined us and Island Sonata for a fantastic dinner out at Killer Prawn (doesn't it seem the holiday's are all about eating?!?!). Killer Prawn hosted a live Spanish-style band ... so along with great food & wine we enjoyed some lively dancing! Somehow we managed to stay awake to midnight (difficult considering we're on cruisers hours, therefore typically hitting the hay around 9/10pm).
Mom's 10 day visit
As my mom (Denise) was arriving at 5:00 AM and the Auckland airport was a good 2-1/2 hours away, we opted to head down to Auckland on the 2nd and stay in a Holiday Park near the airport. Five AM arrived quickly and our first visitor (of many) had finally arrived! I couldn't believe that a year had already gone by. After a chatty drive back home to Whangarei, Chris & I enjoyed a second Christmas ... my Mom had brought lots and lots of goodies from the states, including Bisquick quick packs, Skippy Peanut Butter, a new zoom camera lens and camera backpack, and a replacement camera for Chris (seeing as I toasted his last one when I toppled over the wall in Tonga). She also brought lots and lots of pictures which we thoroughly enjoyed going through. Between our early wake-up call and jet lag we decided to have a lazy day around Whangarei.
Mom's Visit Day 2 (Jan 4th)
Since it wasn't raining we figured it was a great day for a walk ... the Whangarei Falls offered great views, a stroll through a small Kauri forest, and a terrific waterfall.
Mom's Visit Day 3 (Jan 5th)
Next up was a visit to Heritage Park located just around the bend from the Harbor. Heritage Park offered a variety of attractions, including an old historic New Zealander's house, Old Engines (maintained by a local Engine's club), a Bird information center and hospital, and a 'famous' talking Tui ... who sounded JUST like a deep-voiced man. He entertained us with "Merry Christmas", "Wanna going swimming", and "Hello".
Mom's Visit Day 4 (Jan 6th)
Unfortunately the weather was still not cooperating, as we awoke to another cloudy, dreary day. But we didn't let the lingering clouds damper our spirits as we headed south towards Warkworth for a visit to Sheepworld. We opted for the scenic coastal drive out to Manawhai Heads, enjoying the beautiful views and sandy beaches.
Sheepworld was the first really touristy thing that Chris and I did in NZ ... and in my opinion one of the most fun! I had talked Chris into going under the ruse that my mom would like it, but in all honesty I was itching to go! In the end I think Chris enjoyed hand feeding the farm animals and the sheep herding show as much as my mom and I!
As the sheep-herding dog show started I selfishly commented to Chris, "Bummer that all these kids are here, they're the ones who will get to do all the [interactive] stuff!". However, kudos to the commentator as he asked for "big kid" volunteers as well, and Mom & Chris were sure to give me the nudge to get out there ... I got to try my hand at sheep sorting and enjoyed bottle feeding a baby pig. After my (quite pathetic) attempt at sheep sorting I have a whole new respect for farmers.
We finished the day off with a drive up to a lookout point over Whangarei.
Mom's Visit Day 5 (Jan 7th)
Since it was raining, it was a good day for relaxing around the boat and catching up on our books. We also prepared for our upcoming South Island / Glacier visit.
Mom's Visit Day 6 (Jan 8th)
Off to the Auckland airport for our flight to Christchurch ...
Just as we arrive at the airport our nostrils were filled with the strong odor of anti-freeze! One of Billavan's hoses had cracked wide up and was now spewing anti-freeze all over the airport parking lot. With a flight to catch Chris took a cursory glance in order to figure out what supplies to buy before our return trip from the South Island. As it turns out this was one of many "lucky" breakdowns ... lucky in that the van decided to breakdown just as we hit our destination (you'll read about the other breakdowns in future journal pieces).
It was a rainy/overcast day, so we didn't get to see much on the flight between islands. In Christchurch we rented a car and headed West across SH 73, through Arthur's Pass and on into Glacier country. At one of our lookout stops, we were introduced to the Kea, a very social mountain parrot who is know for eating plastic and rubber off of cars and camping gear!!!
It was raining off and on, but we still managed to enjoy a few great views. We were amazed at the difference in scenery between the "wet" side and the "dry" side of the Alps ... it was as though we were in two different countries! In addition, the long drive included flat farm lands, the mountainous Southern Alps, and ocean-side highways ... making the drive continuously interesting.
Mom's Visit Day 6 (Jan 9th)
Although it had been pouring down rain when we arrived, we woke to stunning blue skies. We were very excited as today's adventure was all about hiking part of the Franz Josef Glacier. We were booked for one of the morning 1/2 day glacier hikes, so it was a get-up-and-go morning as we headed off for the tour. It was a bit of a shock when we arrived and were shown a picture of the ever growing, and increasingly steeping glacier. Both Chris and I started getting nervous, not only for ourselves (after looking at the picture I had serious doubts as to whether I was up to the challenge), but also for my Mom (hiking glaciers isn't a very common activity in Yuma, Arizona). She however was overly gung-ho and bursting with energy (we learned later that she really didn't get a good look at the picture!!!). We also learned that the Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers are fast moving glaciers, with flow reates up to 3m PER DAY!
We were outfitted with raincoats, boots, and ice-Talonz (basically a set of spikes that cover the entire sole of the boot and are hinged in two places, allowing unimpeded walking and "superior" glacier grip), then shuffled onto a bus for a short trip out to the glacier. We knew that our group would be splitting into three smaller groups based on desired hiking speed (slower, faster, and somewhere in between). The faster you hike, the higher you get, and therefore the more "cool" stuff you get to see (such as ice crevices, ice caves, tunnels, etc). Prior to getting on the bus Mom had told us that we should go with one of the faster groups, but that she wanted to take here time with the more leisurely paced group. Chris and I were torn, we couldn't decide if we should really leave Mom or not (it sort of felt as though we would be just ditching her, what kind of daughter would that make me???). It was a bit funny when Chris and I (who were at the back of the bus, while my Mom was at the front) were discussing what we should do, saying things like "Do you think she'll be okay?" ... "Should we really leave her alone?" ... "You think it is going to be too hard?" ... "Maybe she'll need/want company", and a man sitting next to me said, "Oh, do you have a child also?". "No," I replied, "we have a Mom!". "Ahh, just about the same thing!" he said with laughter! In the end, with Mom's blessing (and urging), Chris and I joined the fast group, leaving Mom to handle the big-bad block of ice on her own!!!
One of the most amazing things about the glacier is the approach. The hike starts with a forty-minute tramp through a pretty dense rain forest that leads you to an open, dry, rocky terrain. Another forty minutes (of mostly flat walking) or so and you are looking up and a humongous block of ice (the glacier). At the bottom of the glacier we were instructed on how to hook on our ice-Talonz and how to walk & climb to make them as effective as possible, and to avoid catching them on your pant legs (which would then trip you up).
As I looked up the side of the glacier my stomach flipped with nervousness ... "I am not this fit." I was thinking, "Why the hell did I come in the fast group?". But nobody in our group really looked like serious fitness buffs, so I tried to reassure myself that all would be well. And of course it was. The guides carve steep ice steps into the side of the mountain, and the going is actually quite slow. It felt even steeper than it looked and I did have a few moments where I visualized myself slipping backwards off one of the steps into oblivion. Even worse, I had a few moments of serious guilt that I had left Mom behind, as I visualized calling my sister to tell her that I had caused Mom's demise! Perhaps my visualization skills can be too good sometimes!
We made our way slowly up the glaciers, using hand ropes and carved steps to ascend. I kept looking down below hoping to see Mom's black head in one of the tiny people-specs below. A few times I thought I saw her, but I'm pretty sure it was just my imagination trying to put me at ease. Once past the super-steep part, the going was much easier, and I could finally relax and enjoy the views. We traveled through a few crevices and got a chance to look through a few tiny ice caves, but a 1/2-day hike didn't allow for much time, and before we knew it, we were on our way down again. For someone a bit afraid of heights, the climb down was just as scary as going up. There was nothing to stop you should you take a wrong step, slip, or trip. As if to reinforce this point, just as we were nearing the bottom, a woman in a group in front of us caught her ice-Talonz on her pant leg, tripping her up. She fell about 25 feet into a rocky crevice. We didn't actually witness the fall, but we did hike past her ... and it was not a pretty sight. She was fine (in that she didn't break her neck), but she did have a pretty good cut on her head, and had dislocated her shoulder. I was quite happy and relieved when we made it down to the bottom, and even more so, when we found Mom sitting there, safe, healthy, and happy!!!
To top of this fantastic day, it didn't start raining until we had finished our hike!!! This was such a terrific adventure, that we took almost 200 pictures! I've tried to pick the better ones, but there are still so many that I felt it would be a little overwhelming to have them all in the journal ... click on the photo below to link over the photo album of Franz Josef Glacier!
Side note: a few days after Mom's departure from NZ, Chris found an article in the local newspaper with the subtitle: "Climbers are now screened because the steep trek is more dangerous"! The article went on to state that the glacier was rapidly expanding outwards, becoming steeper at its front. The manager of Franz Josef Glacier Guides was quoted saying, "It's a safety issue. The climb is tougher now and you have to remember it's not sturdy rock, it's slippery ice. You fall, you're gone." Yikes!!! Glad we read that AFTER doing the hike :) Now all my worrying doesn't seem so cowardly eh?
I had made a [minor] booking error and booked us 20 minutes down the road at a holiday park in Fox Glacier rather than Franz Josef ... which turned out to be quite lucky after all, as the scenery between the two glaciers was fantastic, and it gave us an opportunity to explore both Gillespies Beach and take a look at Fox Glacier.
After our tiring morning we didn't hike to the base of Fox Glacier, but did get the opportunity to see it via a couple of different lookout points.
Rain forest walk to viewpoint of Fox Glacier Lots of tree ferns lined the path Waterfalls could be seen through the dense forest Fox Glacier Next we drove to the car park near the base of Fox, which is surrounded by towering, dramatic cliffs horizontal rule
Since it was still too early for dinner, we decided to drive out to Gillespies Beach. By now the sun had again broken through and we had some fantastic views of the Glaciers and Southern Alps Range. We were a bit hesitant to drive all the way to the beach when we encountered a huge "EXTREME DANGER" sign (regarding road conditions), but what the heck, we were in a rental after all! Turns out the road is not that bad. Gillespies Beach was terrific, you could stand and do a 360, seeing beach, rain forest, mountain ranges, and the glaciers ... all from one spot! We didn't spend long on the actually beach as the sand-flies were horrendous. We also had some fun with the farm animals along the way ... we had stopped the car to take a picture, when I noticed that a couple of the cows were looking up at me, so (naturally) I mooed at them, "Mooo Moooo Mooo" ... I kid you not, EVERY cow in the paddock looked up at me ... so of course I kept on Mooeing "Mooo Mooo Mooooooo" ... next thing I knew they were all running, yes RUNNING, towards me! Luckily there was a fence, so I had nothing to worry about (although I later learned that cows are able to knock over and/or jump the fences when properly provoked). It was one of the funniest sites ever (at least funny to a non-farm girl from California).
Finally, it was back to the holiday park, hot showers, and a nice dinner out (to reward ourselves for completing the Glacier Hike).
Mom's Visit Day 7 (Jan 10th)
Chris was so motivated by all the great scenery, that he woke early and went out to try and get some good shots (photographs) with the soft morning light. Later, the sky was so clear and blue that we all went out to take even more photographs, hoping to capture the majestic sights that surrounded us. We probably went a little overboard on route to Arthur's Pass, continuously jumping out of the car to snap off a few shots ... but it was wonderfully beautiful and we desperately wanted to capture "the moment" on film! Click on the photo below to view the photo gallery of our journey from Glaciers to Arthur's pass (in my non-professional opinion there are some great photos in this album that you just won't want to miss ... so be sure to click and check them out!!!!).
Arthur's Pass was a quaint (i.e. small) little town with fields and fields of purple flowers (whose name escapes me). By now it had clouded over and was raining on & off, so after a brief walk around town (doesn't take to long when there is only one street with all of four buildings), we stopped in at a cafe for dinner. We had a most excellent pizza, with smoked chicken, cranberry sauce, and brie (yes, I was hesitant at first too!).
Mom's Visit Day 8 (Jan 11th)
It was time to head back to the North Island. We made our way from Arthur's Pass to Christchurch. Since our flight wasn't until later in the afternoon, we were able to stop in at the Antarctic Centre. This is a terrific center with interactive displays, videos, and a Hägglund Ride (an all-terrain vehicle used in the Antarctic). There are displays on Antarctic's wildlife, and in-depth information about Scott Base. We spent a couple of hours exploring the centre, and easily could've spent a bit more. During lunch (at the Center's cafe) Chris ran across the street to get a glimpse of the US Antarctic Center, spotting one of the planes departing for Antarctica. The Centre was SO interesting that it made both Chris and I want to visit someday (in the Summer of course). We were very surprised to find that even Lonely Planet has a guide for Antarctica!
On the plane ride back we had a clear view of Egmont National Park and the massive 2518m dormant volcano, Mt Taranaki (click on photo to left). Chris had to work his handy magic on Billavan when we got back to the airport parking lot (fixing the hose that busted when we arrived). Handy as he is, it wasn't too long before we were on the road headed back to Whangarei.
Mom's Visit Day 9 (Jan 12th)
It was a nice day to relax, and we took a leisurely drive out to Whangarei Heads, overlooking a couple terrific bays, talking to cows, and visiting a beach or two.
Mom's Visit Day 10 (Jan 13th)
It seemed like just yesterday we were picking Mom up at the airport, and now it was time to get ready to go back. We mostly lazed around ... taking time to visit a few shops (where Mom stocked up on last minute souvenirs) and enjoying a bit of sunshine.
Mom's Visit Day 11 (Jan 14th)
It was another drive to Auckland (by the end of our stay in NZ we would have this route down pat!). We enjoyed a bit of walking around Warkworth, where we stopped for lunch and a look at the nearby channel. We got Mom safely to the airport ... I couldn't believe that it had been a year since I'd last seen her, and would probably be another year or so before I saw her again. At least I knew the time would go quickly ... but still her visit reminded me of how much I missed home at times, and how many family members & friends I wouldn't get to see this year.
After dropping Mom off, Chris and I hooked up with Robin & Duncan for dinner in Auckland (their boat, Whisper is currently docked across the bay from Auckland). It was a terrific dinner (excellent fish) and it was fantastic to catch up with Robin & Duncan. Since we stayed out late, we opted to spend the night in a local Holiday Park before heading back to Whangarei the next morning.
Northland and Coromandel Peninsula Road trip
12/11/04 - 12/18/04
by KT
Our Road trip Route
Because there was so much to see on this trip, we did this journal piece a bit different. Rather than separate the picture albums from the journal text, both (and video coming soon) are included in this journal. We figured that words alone just wouldn't do it!
Day 1
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With the modifications to Billavan complete, and the van filled to the brim with food, clothes, sleeping gear, dishes & more ... we were finally ready to hit the road for some inland travels. We didn't have to check the weather, we didn't need to provision for an unknown number of days not knowing where our next fresh vegetable would come from, we didn't need to lash down all are goods, and it didn't matter how hard it blew! We were traveling on land!
Just outside of Whangarei, we headed off the main highway to drive along the beautiful Tutukaka coastline - and we weren't disappointed with the views! We made a brief stop at the Tutukaka Marina, just to scope out the boats and stretch our legs. We also popped into the local dive shop for information on diving the Poor Knights Islands (which sounds fantastic). We attempted to find one of the short walks from my 202 Great Walks of New Zealand book, however after three tries at finding the turnoff we gave up and continued on.
We ventured farther out into the boondogs, taking on bumpy unsealed roads to find ourselves in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by cows, sheep, Pukeko birds, and vast stretches of farmland. We stopped for another leg-stretch in Whananaki admiring the beautiful coastline. On our return to the main highway we discovered a small 20 minute walk with more terrific views.
White sand beaches of Whananaki Chris at Whananaki Coast Matapouri to Whananaki coastal views Cows and more cows Pukeko birds Fields of wildflowers along deserted road We like the interesting markings of the black cow And the perfectly round spot on the brown one! Chris & Billavan
Back on the main road, our next stop was Waiomio, where we visited the Kawiti glow worm caves. The formations inside the caves were amazing. The guide turned off his lantern and the roofs were transformed into brightly lit galaxies. Hundreds of twinkling stars appeared above us (which were really not stars at all but the glow worms). The scientific facts of the glow worm are not as wondrous as the viewing ... glow worms are larvae. Their light is created with the energy from their waste product 'disposal' (in other words it's their poop that's glowing). When they finally hatch, their adult life only lasts 3 days, during which the spend the ENTIRE time mating. They have no mouths so the simply die from starvation and/or exhaustion! The cave tour ended with a pleasant 10 minute bush walk back to the parking lot.
Next we took the 'inland' route to Kerikeri where we met up with Ralph & Donna from Ocean Girl for Pizza & Beer before settling down at the nearby Top 10 Holiday Park (campervan/tent camping grounds).
Day 2
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We started off day 2 with a visit to the Kerikeri chocolate factory in hopes of free samples! Perhaps it was too early in the morning because we were left empty handed staring through the viewing window with drool running down our chins. Next door was a Kauri Workshop with beautiful wood pieces. We purchased a carved Kiwi bird Christmas ornament. Having failed at the chocolate factory, we stopped at an outstanding bakery, picking up ginger bars, caramel chocolate bars, and a gingerbread man. Next we were off for a few short walks (to work off all the sweets). The Rainbow Falls track took us to two terrific waterfalls (one being the 27 metre Rainbow Falls of course). We took a peak inside the Stone Store (NZ's oldest stone building and earliest frontier shop, 1836) but decided to move on while the sun was still shining (rather then spend our time indoors).
Rainbow Falls Walk - neat pond with lili pods Walk along Rainbow Falls trek in Kerikeri Pukeko Bird (yes we're obessed with them) Rainbow Falls Waterfall We were entertained by ducks going after some food. Rainbow Ralls (27m) First waterfall along Rainbow Falls track Chris relaxing by Rainbow Falls KT out on a limb (hee hee) Stone House historical building "Authentic" Steam boat Look back up river towards Stone House
We ventured further inland to check out the Puketi Forest. Huge, magnificent Kauri trees loomed over us as we made our way along the walkway. There were a variety of different walks & tramps that one could follow. We went on a shorter one, with the idea that we just might have to come back for a longer stay.
Another coastal detour took us out to Matauri & Tauranga Bay. We stopped at every little town along this route, and further north as we continued to follow the coast by Taupo Bay, checking out beaches, campsites, and just taking in the sights. (Historical note: The Cavalli Islands, just off of Matauri Bay, is the resting place of the one-time Greenpeace flagship Rainbow Warrior)
After driving by tons of "Cow Crossing" road signs, we finally experienced our own cow crossing! We finished the night off with fish n' chips at the "World Famous" Mangonui Fish shop, and then settled down at a camping park in Hihi beach.
Day 3
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It started pouring rain around 4am ... not so quiet pounding away against Billavan's roof. We did a bit of lounging before heading out of Hihi beach (what's the hurry when it's raining?). We stopped briefly in Mangonui for a brief walk amongst the small town stores and then again in Cable Bay to check out the bakery and buy some oil. Then it was out to the Karikari Peninsula (not to be confused with Kerikeri). This drive was magnificent. The views and scenery were stunning even with the cloud cover and light fog. We had originally planned on a short hike to the outer edge of the peninsula but with the rain & mud we opted to just drive as far as we could get. Unfortunately the very tip had recently been closed off ... although for years the beach/peninsula tip had been open to the public, just recently the owner had decided to close off the area to the public. Apparently this was big news around the area and had been in the papers and on TV over the last couple of days. We drove out to both Whatuwhiwhi and Rangiputa points before heading to the Karikari Estates winery. It was just noon, so we didn't feel too guilty about a little wine tasting (plus we just had to go since Chris' sister's name is Kari!). The views from the winery were just gorgeous, we couldn't imagine how magnificent it must been with good weather. After a brief tasting (we were driving after all) and a small purchase we continued back to the main highway.
It seemed like we were in the middle of a discussion on whether it made sense to drive all the way up to Cape Reinga on a cloudy, foggy day (where one couldn't see the view), when the sun started to poke its head out! So we went for it. After a brief stop in Kaitaia, and then another stop at a Kauri shop which hosts the oldest set of Kauri stairs we were on our way.
We detoured to the west coast, Waipapakauri Ramp, to view the ninety-mile beach (which is really 90km, not miles). There are actually speed signs posted, as it is a popular tourist attraction to drive along this beach, including HUGE buses, going 100 clicks (aka kilometers) an hour! This is not a beach to do your sun bathing on!!! Not wanting to risk getting Billavan stuck, we decided just to take a look on foot.
The drive up to the Cape was a pleasant, curvy, scenic drive ... filled with suicidal birds. We had noticed these little brown guys with white spotted wings before, but now they seemed to be out in full force ... and they LOVED to dart out in front of Billavan as we zoomed by! More than once Chris had to brake in order to avoid splatting one! There was also some large bird creature that attempting to run into the side of our van, Chris swerving to avoid it. In the end one bird did meet its maker, it was purely unavoidable, luckily there was no blood & gore. Everything was going along nicely until we hit the 25km unsealed portion. While it wasn't raining at the moment, we hadn't really considered the previous 12 hours of rain that had fallen ... the road was a muddy, slippery mess. I was quite happy that Chris had lived on the East coast and could utilize his now driving skills -- boy were they needed! Somehow we managed to not get stuck and to stay on the road. We thought about turning back a few times, but after having already passed through some pretty hairy patches, I figured we should at least be rewarded with the views (and pictures)! Prior to the muddy mess we had planned to stop at Tapotupotu Bay and hike out to Cape Reinga ... that plan was quickly nixed once we realized what a mess it was. The views did end up being pretty terrific -- the fog had lifted just enough to provide great visibility. We didn't stay too long though, as we didn't want to be the last ones to leave (we wanted someone behind us in case we got stuck). The drive back actually didn't seem quite as bad ... a few interested skids here and there, but we managed just fine. Billavan of course was a HUGE muddy mess!
Day 4
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After utilize the pressure water car wash hose (leaving behinds heaps and heaps of mud), when ventured South along the Western coast. Prior to departing Ahipara we checked into riding blokarts, however there wasn't enough wind and we hadn't hit the tide correctly, bummed we moved on. We followed the Twin Coast Discovery Highway to Kohukahu where we caught the ferry over to Rawene. From there it was on to Opononi and Omapere. Huge sand dunes loomed across the bay - supposedly perfect for sand boarding. We left sand boarding for another day and instead ventured out to the Hokianga South Head where we enjoyed a 30 minute walk -amongst more breathe-taking views.
A bit further down the road we took another side track out to the Waiotemarama Gorge. An extremely short trail led us to a small waterfall. Next door to the path entrance was a game shop with an interesting back-woods-type owner. This guy was towering tall (like a Kauri tree) with a bush full white beard. He was extremely friendly and challenged each of us to a puzzle (I actually solved mine without his help!). The shop's location is interesting ... located next to the trail it is literally out in the middle of nowhere. We drove about 10km on a dirt & gravel road into the backwoods to find the place! It might be lonely, but it sure was an awesome location! Our friends from Whisper (Robin & Duncan) had told us about the shop as well, and we were impressed that the shop owner remembered them (then again I'm guessing he isn't packed with customers on a daily basis).
Down the road we set out on foot again along the Tane Mahuta, Te Matua Ngahere, and Four Sisters tracks. The first track took us to the largest living Kauri tree, which until I just re-read the pamphlet we had thought was the oldest not largest. The estimate the Tane Mahuta to be about 2000 years old. Its dimensions are: Total height 51.5m, trunk girth 13.6m, trunk height 17.7m, and volume 244.5m3! The second track took us to the second largest living Kauri tree, and the final track took us to four large Kauri's growing rather close together. We had intending to also walk the longer Yakas track (where the 7th largest Kauri lives), but it was closed due to mud and flooding.
Just down the road was a DOC (Department of Conservation) campsite. By far this had been the best day of weather yet! The sun had been out all day, it was warm, and not a drop of rain. We enjoyed the remainder of the day reading under the sun while snacking on cheese, crackers, & wine.
Day 5
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It seems we have hit New Zealand during one of their coldest & wettest summers! We again awoke to rain and heavy cloud cover. We also realized that during our outdoor relaxation the night before we had been attacked by sand flies! We started the morning off with a drive (too wet to hike) up to a lookout point overlooking part of the Waipoua Forest, followed by a visit to Trounson Kauri Park for a short walk. In Trounson Park we learned a couple of interesting facts about possums, such as: an estimated 22,000 tons of vegetation a NIGHT are consumed by possums in NZ; and possums are NZ's number one enemy against wildlife! We also found a little privately owned Kauri Woodshop, where we finally found the bowl I've been looking for at a price I could afford.
We drove out to the Kai Iwi Lakes, which looked like a terrific place to hang out and camp, but as it was not even noon yet, we weren't quite ready to settle in for the night. In Dargaville we stopped at The Woodturners Studio which hosted beautiful wood art (all too expensive for those on a cruiser's salary!), and a cat name KT!!! Next we visited the local Museum which offered a good view of Dargaville as well as the Rainbow Warrior masts.
We stopped in Matakohe to check out the Kauri Museum. We opted to just scope out the ground instead of paying to get in, thinking that we will most likely return with our families (coming in the next few months). From Matakohe we enjoyed a scenic drive along the 16 and then up to Shelly Beach, where we made camp for the night.
Day 6
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If you can believe it, it was raining ... AGAIN! At this point you'd think we'd be used to it, but it's just tough when you want the sun to come out! Thanks to the rain and our lack of desire to hike in it, we did A LOT of driving this day.
We made a quick stop in Auckland, where I sat in the car studying maps while Chris went into a marine store and marine bookstore. Then it was on to Hamilton and Cambridge. Two cute little towns South of Auckland. When we stomped at the Auto store in Cambridge we ran into friends we met back in Suwarrow (Mark & Lisa). They had purchased a van and were headed down to Rotorua & Lake Taupo. From Tirau (just past Cambridge) we headed towards the Eastern coast and Tauranga. We made a quick stop in Matamata to check out Hobbiton (from Lord of the Rings), but at $50 a head we decided we really didn't need to see the movie set! The entire town was apparently quite proud to have been the host of Hobbiton however, as signs and decorations hung everywhere.
As we traveled up a pretty steep slope towards Tauranga a thick fog settled in around us. The fog along with the surrounding scenery had a very mystic, very Jurassic feel. As we drove through Tauranga (we were heading to check out the marinas) we were thrilled to see Sushi signs -- instantly we decided that we would be camping in the Tauranga area. At the Tauranga Bridge Marina we ran into Roger & Nancy from Equanimity and made dinner plans. We traveled up the road a bit to Mount Maunganui to grab a campsite before dinner. The town of Mount Maunganui was quite a bit larger than we had expected and the campsite was terrific. It reminded us a lot of La Ventana (Mexico) with tons of long-term campers and surfers milling around.
We ended up having Thai instead of Sushi (the Sushi places didn't look so enticing), but it was excellent! The main Strand of Tauranga was a happening place with many patrons having dinner and drinks underneath heated lambs. The smells that wafted around the street were to die for! After a post-dinner stroll we headed back to Mount Maunganui for such much needed rest.
Day 7
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Although it rained off and on through the night we woke up to dry skies and a bit of sun trying to break through. We took advantage of the good weather with a hike up Mount Maunganui to check out the views. It was a bit steeper than I was mentally prepared for, but with Chris trudging along ahead of me (and me being to stubborn to quit) I managed to pull myself to the top ... once I saw the views I was glad I did!
After showers and a drive their the beaches of Mount Maunganui (which reminded us a lot of home) we headed up the coast to the Coromandel Peninsula. Along the way we came across an interesting vehicle, which we later figured was part of a Gypsy Flea Market that we passed.
The route up to the Coromandel Peninsula provided more breath-taking views! We made brief stops in Katikati and Waihi. In Whangamata we stopped at the local i-center (information center) and picked up another half a dozen or so pamphlets on the various activities (including camping & hiking) in New Zealand ... at this point I think we have information overload!
We were tempted to stop at the Hot Water Beach, but with the rain still pouring down, digging our own hot water salt-water spa didn't sound appealing to either of us. Just before Whitianga we hung a left onto the 309 Road. It was an extremely narrow (not to mention bumpy) road, but the views were well worth the bouncing around (as long as you don't get car sick!). We stopped for two little walks to view more Kauri trees and another waterfall (this time seeing a Siamese Kauri tree and a Kauri Patch).
The town of Coromandel was a very cute town. It seemed clean and old-fashioned with a single main street lined with small shops and markets. We continued down the Western coast of Coromandel Peninsula, stopping near Tapu for more scenic lookouts.
Just passed the town of Thames we hooked a left to take a look at the Kauaeranga Valley. It was our intention to camp within the forest and then do a four hour hike the following morning. By the time we reached the visitor center (to check-in/pay) they were closed. We drove around the area, but many of the campsites also looked closed. Not sure what the deal was, we returned to town, camping at Dickson's Park just North of Thames. When we piled out of the van we were immediately greeted by a rush of ducks. Chris walked up to use the bathroom and I dug out some bread ... by the time Chris returned I was fully surrounded. Although he gave me a hard time, he instantly took over the feeding! They were fearless, talkative animals, and we thoroughly entertained by their quacking, waddling, and jumping.
Day 8
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Surprise, Surprise -- it rained ALL night and into the morning. In addition the forecast was calling for more rain. It was not looking good for our Kauaeranga Valley hike. We lounged around for quite awhile, hiding from the rain inside the van with our books. Finally we hit the road. We followed the coast around to Clevedon, where Chris spotted a herd of Banded Cows! We had been looking for them from the start of the trip so that I could get a picture. The are cute buggers, with a single white band around their mid-section ... and a bit more furry then "normal" cows.
As we closed in on Manukau and Highway 1, we could see Auckland and the Sky Tower in the distance. We also noticed that this area seemed to be populated by a much richer crown, with each estates towering over acres of land.
We continued on our way back "home" (towards Whangarei), taking the Eastern route this time. The continuous rain and boisterous winds squashed our desire to stop at any of the many Auckland area Regional Parks. In Silverdale we pulled over to check out the supposed Outlet Stores, but it turned out to be a bit of a disappointment (not quite what we were expecting). At Warkworth we took the Matakana Wine Coast and visited three wineries; Ascension, Heron's Flight, and Matakana Estate (our favorite was Ascension). Everyone was extremely friendly, and we were surprised to find the wineries quite full with the weather conditions such that they were.
Billavan had been acting up more and more ... some kind of problem where it seems to lose power going up hills -- we had thought it was a fuel line problem because in the beginning it only happened when the tank was less than half full, but on this day it seemed to happen all the time. Because of this we decided not to take the coastal route (which included unsealed and potentially unpopulated roads), and rather headed straight back to Whangarei.
I now understand why Chris wanted to travel/live in Billavan ... when we returned to Billabong, she seemed HUGE! The bed was gigantic, and it was the BEST nights sleep ever!!!
Phew! What a whirlwind of a trip! All the rain was a bit of a bummer, but the scenery was just fabulous. We can't wait to explore the southern by of the North Island and the entire South Island! Continue reading "Road Trip - NZ Northland"...
Just to give you the basics, we made it to NZ safe and sound, landing in Opua on Nov 8th. It was a windy, bumpy passage, but no major storms to fret over. We did have 40 knots most of the trip, and Chris spent most of the time in the cockpit, while KT stayed below and laid down in the center of the boat to decrease the effects of the motion. The boat would rock one way, and take water over that side and then roll the other way with either a big splash or water flooding the decks. We were VERY happy to have the hard dodger.
New Zealand (Arrival and First month) 11/8/04 - 12/10/04
We LOVE NZ and we LOVE traveling on land for a bit. We purchased a van which Chris then did some handy work on so that we can sleep/camp in it. The van of course has a name ... Billavan! We have moved Billabong to Whangarei where she will remain for the season while we explore the North and South Island on Billavan.
We are Chris & KT Myles aboard the Sailing Vessel Billabong (a 44 foot sloop). We set sail from Ventura, CA in Dec 2003 and spent 5.5 years and 33,000 miles sailing the world. Learn more about our adventure through Our Blog
